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Routes in Riglos

Alberto Rabadá o Murciana S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Anorexia S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chopper S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Directa as cimas S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Espolón de Adamello S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fiesta De Los Biceps S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mosquitos S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Normal Route (Vía Normal) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Normal al Puro S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Elevation: 2,520 ft
GPS: 42.451, -0.684 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: rickziegler Ziegler on Apr 13, 2014
Admins: Jason Halladay
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Description

The tiny village of Mallos de Riglos sits at the base of 1000 foot conglomerate walls. At first look the walls in Riglos don't inspire alot of confidence as to the quality of the rock. But get on any well travelled route and you'll find most holds firmly cemented into the sandstone matrix.
Spanish climbers began attempting these walls in the late 1920's. The efforts of Alberto Rabadá and Ernesto Navarro in the 50's and 60's are legendary in Spain. Climbs took days and weeks on gear that now is unimaginable. Lucky for us mortals, the style has changed and bolt protected climbing allows the rest of us to climb these walls.
Hold size ranges from pebble to Volkswagen sized, with the average being a bit smaller than a volleyball. Grades from 5.9 to 5.12+. A full pitch of these "bolos" will leave you pumped and happy. However, many of the true cruxes come at the "panzas.". Overhanging, bouldery bulges. Mercifully, most of these can be aided if necessary.
Pitch length ranges from 40 feet to 1000 feet, with the multi pitch, bolted protected routes being the most popular (helmet highly recommended).
Riglos claims 300 sunny days per year. Winter, spring and fall are the most popular. Routes can get a bit busy on weekends.
Route style varies from sport bolted pitches to A5 adventure, horror shows. There's plenty to do though with a rack of draws and the occassional spare piece of gear. Many routes have crux bulges that can be aided and many parties seem to take this approach.
Plenty to do on rest/rain days, including hiking, bird watching, rafting the Rio Gallego, catching a day drunk at El Puro bar, touring the medieval castle in Loarre or day tripping to the Pyrennes.

Getting There

Flying to Barcelona and renting a car will get you here in 3-3.5 hours.
The from train Zaragoza will get you here too. Once in Riglos, you don't need the car. Approaches are 5-30 minutes.

Accommodation: some camping is available. Staying in your van seems to be tolerated in the two large parking lots. Rooms are available in town. The El Puro bar rents rooms, has great food, incredibly friendly new owners and the best terrace for drinking an après climb beer.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Riglos

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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manuel rangel
Arizona
manuel rangel   Arizona
There has been a Refugio in town for at least a couple of years. I stayed there twice. It provides a room and food, if requested.

Next time I would recommend staying in the village of Ayerbe, just ten minutes away. The food choices are better and it is a short drive.

Try to time your trips to weekdays because it becomes a zoo on weekends. I was nearly hit by a baseball-sized stone a week ago as we started Moskitos. One of the climbers high on the route lobbed it off without warning. Oct 24, 2015

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