Pit Fiend Rock Climbing
|GPS:||39.341, -77.127 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||631 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||Bob Ewing on Nov 5, 2013|
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DescriptionThis area is pretty shady and doesn't draw the crowds that the Upper Mountain crags (Boy Scout Ledges and Middle Earth) get. Most of the climbers at Devil's Kitchen will be top roping, with Pit Fiend Rock being no exception. The one lead climb is Balrog, a dirty 5.10a.
Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details
Sugarloaf is a privately owned recreation area. The park is closed at night and the gate is locked. Allow enough time to pack, hike, and drive out the oneway road to the gate before it is locked.
Getting TherePit Fiend Rock is located in Devil's Kitchen, the first crag you come across at Sugarloaf Mountain. Most climbers take the road all the up to the top and park in the West View parking lot to climb the Upper Mountain crags at Boy Scout Ledges and Middle Earth. On the way up you'll pass the East View parking lot on your left and then take a 90 degree left hand turn. Once you make the turn, the Devil's Kitchen is a 600 foot crag on your right. About 50 feet after the left hand turn there's a small picnic area with parking alongside the road. Park here and walk past the picnic area up to the crag. The Pit Fiend Rock wall is located about 50 feet to the right of the classic crack Slow & Easy, and slightly to the left of the picnic area. Car to crag is about two minutes.
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Prime Climbing Season