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Routes in Pit Fiend Rock

Balrog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 283 total, 6/month
Shared By: Bob Ewing on Nov 5, 2013 with updates
Admins: Frances Fierst

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Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details


Balrog is an awkward, dirty route. It's fun, a bit intense, and then in hindsight will likely feel soft for the grade. It's more about balance than pump.


The route is located inside the wide chimney on the left side of Pit Fiend Rock. You scramble for a few feet up to a roof, and then follow the crack on the right up and out, around the roof on the right to a ledge. then you climb up the dirty mountain to a spot suitable for belaying.


The route will take hexes, nuts and cams. Once you pull past the roof to the ledge, you'll probably want to sling some trees on your way up to a belay spot. There's a clutch spot for #4 cam in the crack. Given the awkward nature of the climb, rope drag will probably be bad.