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Routes in Mt. Liberty, Franconia Notch

Crumble Stone Off Width T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
Deceiving Off Width, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Favorite T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
North Too T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North one T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ramp T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Elevation: 4,426 ft
GPS: 44.116, -71.642 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,754 total · 51/month
Shared By: bradley white on Sep 11, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer
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Description

Don't know about earlier ascents. I climbed it in 1983 by several ways and with or without a rope all the crack routes are X without giant cams or tubes. North side is short and similar rock to Pinnacle Buttress, Huntington Ravine, Mt Washington and has the best protection. North side lines utilize smaller protection and center and south side are wide granite cracks that would require the largest cams or tubes.
Too long a hike to bring up these heavy cams in my opinion. The center is a low angle ramp to a short head wall and left of it is the widest chimney like off width crack, right of center ramp are two off width cracks and furthest right access is diagonal horizontal crack to narrowest off width with finish. Belay is easily set up at summit for top roping everything and not much to anchor a belay at ledges base. Center is about 100 feet maybe more? South side is 30-40 feet. Much more potential for routes on south side.
Helmet is a good idea here because people on summit may drop something or purposely throw something off. They will have no idea climbers are beneath them.

Getting There

Hike four miles on Liberty Spring Trail (AT) and water can be had at Liberty Spring 1.5? from summit. Turn right or south on Franconia Ridge Trail and walk short distance to near summit of Mt. Liberty ledge. When it is easily had go beneath ledge.

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