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North Face

Oregon > Portland & The… > Broughton Bluff

Description

This is the face that is visible from the highway. It contains the classic Gandalf's Grip and others.

Getting There

Turn left at the main trail and walk around the corner at Hanging Gardens area. The next wall you reach...

Routes from Left to Right

5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 11
● Dark Tower
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 35
● Frodo's Journey
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 32
● Traffic Court
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 16
● Pipen's Direct
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 145
● Gandalf's Grip
Trad 3 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
● Cindyrella
Trad, Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 25
● Gandalf's Peach
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 21
● Peach Cling
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 3
● Reckless Driver
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
● Risky Business
Trad 2 pitches
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
● Skullduggery
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Dark Tower
 11
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
● Frodo's Journey
 35
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
● Traffic Court
 32
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Pipen's Direct
 16
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
● Gandalf's Grip
 145
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
● Cindyrella
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
● Gandalf's Peach
 25
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Peach Cling
 21
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
● Reckless Driver
 3
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
● Risky Business
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
● Skullduggery
 4
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad 2 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The top of the North Face poking out
[Hide Photo] The top of the North Face poking out

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kele Rivers
Portland, OR
[Hide Comment] Ran into some Access Fund representatives here recently. They were scouting for future "Adopt a Crag" type events with a State Parks ranger and found the trail leading to North Face to be in really bad shape erosion / damage wise. They kindly requested to spread the word for folks to avoid further damaging the steep path while repairs are planned. Oct 22, 2025
Portland Area Climbers Coalition
Portland, OR
[Hide Comment] Indeed, Kele, PACC is working with AF and State Parks on shoring up the north path! Make sure you're signed up for PACC emails for announcements on future work days: lp.constantcontactpages.com…

PACC did a few work days at Broughton last year, and we've still got a few other priorities to work on - reach out if you're interested in leading a project team! Oct 23, 2025