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Routes in Cadarese

Ciao 5c T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Classica 6b T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Corner Glove T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack a-go-go 7a T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Doors 8a+/8b, The T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Facile ma larga 6a+ T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Foglie Cadenti 6a+ T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
L'Arco 6b T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
La Freccia 6b+ T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lustra Rock 6b+ T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Megera Crack 6a T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mission Gin Lemon 6b+ T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Muschio Selvaggio 6c T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
No Name T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Purosangue T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scarpdetennis 6a T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Subsonica 6c S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Un pomeriggio da Leoni 6c T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elevation: 2,460 ft
GPS: 46.294, 8.362 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Shawn Heath on Aug 16, 2013 with updates
Admins: Tim Wolfe
Getting weather forecast...


What would a European destination be without bolted cracks? Cadarese! Not to break too much from tradition, there are many bolted cracks here (really nice for safely learning to place gear), but these granite cliffs offer Yosemite-esque quality lines and bring along much the same ethic. More info:

Getting There

Near Tessin. Parking is available at the GPS coordinates.

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18 Total Climbs

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Jordan K
Jordan K   Ohio
Cadarese is outstanding! The rock is perfect Yosemite-style granite with an abundance of cracks of every shape and size, with a range of difficulties, from moderate to extremely hard. Nearly all are single pitches, and many (not all) are bolted despite cracks that simply eat gear. As others here have exhorted... skip the bolts, plug the gear!

The approach is 5-30 minutes depending on which sector you go to, and there is free camping 100 yards down the road (nothing luxurious, but with bathrooms, running water, and picnic tables). Add to that a dozen authentic Italian pizza joints within a stone's throw... what more could you ask for?!

A couple of notes: Despite what the chart shows, prime time is definitely not mid-summer, but late spring and then fall, and into late fall... you can still get good climbing weather well into Nov/Dec with a little luck. The crag is mostly in the shade and is west facing, so doesn't see sun until the afternoon, if at all, but summertime heat is just too much.

Also, there isn't a ton of easy stuff. Below 5.9 the pickings are slim, and 5.10 is really the entry-level grade here. For granite cracks 5.10 and above, welcome to paradise. Make the trip and you won't be disappointed.

Finally, note that the approach trail is a bit sketchy and this is NOT a child-friendly crag! The initial approach trail is a bit of a bowling alley for loose rock if somebody is hiking above you (we learned this the hard way, though without any serious consequences). Some of the sectors require hiking along a ledge system where the trail is close to the edge and a fall could have serious consequences. Fixed ropes are in place in many places to use as handrails. Oct 30, 2017
Dan Flynn   MA  
Topo here!

Also in the new Filidor Extrem Sud, as this is a popular spot for the Swiss to come down to as well. Jul 20, 2016

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