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Areas in Spire Rock

Interface Rocks 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
King (North Face) 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
King (South Face) 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
King (West Face) 3 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Pinnacles, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Queen (North Face) 14 / 1 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Queen (Southeast Corner) 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Queen (Southside) 5 / 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Elevation: 5,801 ft
GPS: 45.953, -112.29 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 20,861 total · 321/month
Shared By: Aaron Bugh on Jun 18, 2013
Admins: grk10vq, Zach Wahrer
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Description

Probably one of the most popular climbing areas near Butte and only about an hour an a half away from Bozeman, this area offers a wide variety of climbing options. Also commonly called Pipestone this are houses some multipitch on King, some good crack and offwidth climbing on Queen with some easy to set up top roping, and a good amount of bouldering starting to be established within a five minutes walk of the base of the Queen. Very short approaches and great climbing make this area decently popular.

Getting There

Take the Pipestone exit #241 off of I-90 and follow the dirt road toward Delmo Lake. About four miles from the freeway it is easy to spot the King on the top of the hill. There is a large BLM parking lot with a restroom right before the turn to the climbs. Make a right that obviously heads toward the crag, and you can either park in a field on the right hand side of the road a short way in or follow the road up and left to a small parking lot that is practically at the base of the Queen.

37 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Spire Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Buck Fever
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 13
Beginner's Lead
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 7
Shoulder Crack
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 13
Automatic Pilot
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 7
White Line
Trad 2 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 3
Frick
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 23
Dream Weaver
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Aerial Book
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 4
Frack
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 19
Cruise Control
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Dead Children's Glee Club
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Out of Order
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Buck Fever Queen (N Face)
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Beginner's Lead Queen (Southeast Corner)
 13
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Shoulder Crack Queen (N Face)
 7
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Automatic Pilot Queen (Southeast Corner)
 13
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
White Line King (W Face)
 7
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Frick King (W Face)
 3
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Dream Weaver Queen (N Face)
 23
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Aerial Book King (W Face)
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Frack King (W Face)
 4
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Cruise Control Queen (Southeast Corner)
 19
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Dead Children's Glee Club Queen (Southside)
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Out of Order Queen (N Face)
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Spire Rock »

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Matt Wenger
Bozeman
Matt Wenger   Bozeman
Be sure to bring a couple of hammers, and go check out the Ringing Rocks while you are out here! A massive pile of boulders (a tor) that ring loudly at many different tones/frequencies when struck with a hard object. Higher clearance vehicle recommended (Subaru is fine).

At the Pipestone exit, instead of going left towards Spire Rock, head right on the dirt road back along the interstate. After 1/2 mile, the road will veer left and cross railroad tracks. Another few hundred yards and take a left where the road splits. Follow this windy road for around 4 miles until you reach another major fork. Head right and into the trees. Park at the lower parking area, or head up the road another hundred yards to a smaller parking area right at the base of the rock pile.

Coordinates: 45.943333 , -112.239060 Jun 11, 2017

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