Elevation: 5,801 ft
GPS: 45.953, -112.29 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 45,677 total · 516/month
Shared By: Aaron Bugh on Jun 18, 2013
Admins: GRK, Zach Wahrer

Description

Probably one of the most popular climbing areas near Butte and only about an hour an a half away from Bozeman, this area offers a wide variety of climbing options. Also commonly called Pipestone this are houses some multipitch on King, some good crack and offwidth climbing on Queen with some easy to set up top roping, and a good amount of bouldering starting to be established within a five minutes walk of the base of the Queen. Very short approaches and great climbing make this area decently popular.

Getting There

Take the Pipestone exit #241 off of I-90 and follow the dirt road toward Delmo Lake. About four miles from the freeway it is easy to spot the King on the top of the hill. There is a large BLM parking lot with a restroom right before the turn to the climbs. Make a right that obviously heads toward the crag, and you can either park in a field on the right hand side of the road a short way in or follow the road up and left to a small parking lot that is practically at the base of the Queen.

44 Total Climbs

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Location: Spire Rock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Spire Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 18
Beginner's Lead
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 20
Automatic Pilot
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 17
White Line
Trad 2 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 6
Doo Doo Man
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 35
Dream Weaver
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
Aerial Book
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 11
Frick
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
The Gobbler
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
 3
Super Squeeze
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 11
Frack
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 31
Cruise Control
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 8
Out of Order
Sport, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
Tormentor
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Dead Children's Glee Club
Trad
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 3
Death Bird
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Beginner's Lead Queen (Southeast Corner)
 18
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Automatic Pilot Queen (Southeast Corner)
 20
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
White Line King (W Face)
 17
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Doo Doo Man King (W Face)
 6
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Dream Weaver Queen (N Face)
 35
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Aerial Book King (W Face)
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Frick King (W Face)
 11
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Gobbler Queen (N Face)
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Super Squeeze Queen (N Face)
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X Trad, TR
Frack King (W Face)
 11
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Cruise Control Queen (Southeast Corner)
 31
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Out of Order Queen (N Face)
 8
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, TR
Tormentor Queen (Southside)
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Dead Children's Glee Club Queen (Southside)
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Death Bird Queen (Southside)
 3
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Spire Rock »

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