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Routes in Queen (North Face)

Annihilator T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Between The Lines T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Buck Fever T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Curving Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Dream Weaver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fault, The T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feelings TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hermes Chasing the Disco Queen T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Left Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mike's Butt Cheeks T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Morning Blues TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Out of Order S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shoulder Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Super Squeeze T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Wot T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Dwight Bishop 1991
Page Views: 270 total, 5/month
Shared By: Aaron Bugh on Jun 28, 2013
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

The huge flake that seems to be falling off of the boulder that Hermes is on. Do your best at offwidth climbing at the bottom then work your feet up and use the flake as a huge sidepull. The gear is just about non existent without some huge stuff and even then, they may seem a little hard to trust on the flake. It is really easy to set a bomber gear anchor at the top with gear up to a #4 and TR the sucker too. If you really want to have some fun try to stay in the crack the whole time, probably bumps the grade to 10+.

Location

The left side of the boulder with Hermes, it is a pretty prominent and obvious feature. Just left of the "canyon" you can use to get to the top.

Protection

An unfortunate lack of it, but think big! Gear anchor at the top goes up to #4.

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