Routes in Balcony Jr.
|4P Super Pump TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|7 Second Peel V0 4|
|Abolitionists Fury T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|B & O Burn S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Bat Crack V0 4|
|Bat Crack low V1 5|
|Bright Lights V1 5|
|Cold Steel Corner T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Damn Leaves V2-3 5+|
|Forearm Furnace TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Forge-Get the Burn TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Founder's Forge, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Gravitas Free Zone TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Grooving Up Slowly T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|HorrorZontals T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Mojo Filter T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Mojo Filter (right) T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Paymaster, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Potomac Power Plant Pump S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Pumpmaster S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Punk Dunkin' V0 4|
|Salty Dog Saloon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Serious Callers Only T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Third Degree Burn V3+ 6A+|
|Tree-oh V0 4|
|Tried for Treason T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Valley of Fear V2 5+|
|GPS:||39.325, -77.72 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||10,787 total, 176/month|
|Shared By:||Conrad S. on Nov 21, 2012|
DescriptionBalcony Jr. is a south facing wall along a power line clearing on Elk Ridge, MD, within the National Park Service property for Harpers Ferry National Historic Park. The wall is 30 to 65 feet tall and nearly every portion of the wall overhangs to some degree. The holds tend to be large but open handed and somewhat slopey. For these reasons the rock can be difficult to read as what looks like a hold may be too slopey to grab. The rock is very hard.
Its just a short uphill hike from Balcony Rock where most people have climbed in the past. Due to the lack of trees in the powerline clearing and the position of the cliff up the mountain side there is an exposed feeling while climbing on this cliff.
This cliff is a great winter climbing area. It faces due south and gets bombarded by the sun all day long. It is climbable through most winters if the wind is not too strong.
The bottom left corner of this cliff is known as The Sunshine Wall for its good sunny winter bouldering. The landing zone is flat and the variations are fun.
The center area of the cliff sees some seepage during wet conditions and during the winter. A small bit of ice can form on the bottom half but it isnt climbable. Multiple types of snakes have been sited below this cliff though not on a consistent or frequent basis. One of these types was poisonous.
Getting ThereParking is the main issue for this cliff and for most of Harpers Ferry. The parking situation changes with the seasons, the quantities of tourists at the park, and people recreating in the water gap. It is best to reach out to local climbers on facebook or in local clubs or outdoor shops to get the current parking beta.
The approach is uphill about 10-20 minutes depending on your leg strength.
Classic Climbing Routes at Balcony Jr.
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season