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Balcony Jr.

Maryland > Harper's Ferry
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures; Road Closures. See nps.gov/hafe/planyourvisit/… DetailsDrop down

Description

Balcony Jr. is a wall along a power line clearing 

Getting There

The approach is uphill about 15-20 minutes depending on your leg strength.

Routes from Left to Right

V1 5
 1
Bright Lights
Boulder
V0 4
 1
Bat Crack
Boulder
V1 5
 1
Bat Crack low
Boulder
V3+ 6A+
 1
Third Degree Burn
Boulder
V0 4
 1
7 Second Peel
Boulder
V0 4
 1
Punk Dunkin'
Boulder
V0 4
 1
Tree-oh
Boulder
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 5
Gravitas Free Zone
TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Serious Callers Only
Trad, TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 10
Tried for Skeezin
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 24
Cold Steel Boner
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 1
HorrorZontals
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
Salty Dog Saloon
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 1
Forearm Furnace
TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 2
Abolitionists Fury
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
 17
Cupcakes and Unicorns
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
 2
Little Sugarlump
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 2
Princess Pullups
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 21
Thumbsucker
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
 25
B&O Burn
Trad, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Forge-Get the Burn
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
The Founder's Forge
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 2
Mojo Filter
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
Mojo Filter (right)
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 11
Grooving Up Slowly
Trad, TR
V4-5 6B+
 1
Shorty Blunt
Boulder
V3 6A
 1
Valley of Fear
Boulder
V3-4 6A+
 1
Damn Leaves
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bright Lights
 1
V1 5 Boulder
Bat Crack
 1
V0 4 Boulder
Bat Crack low
 1
V1 5 Boulder
Third Degree Burn
 1
V3+ 6A+ Boulder
7 Second Peel
 1
V0 4 Boulder
Punk Dunkin'
 1
V0 4 Boulder
Tree-oh
 1
V0 4 Boulder
Gravitas Free Zone
 5
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 TR
Serious Callers Only
 6
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Tried for Skeezin
 10
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b TR
Cold Steel Boner
 24
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, TR
HorrorZontals
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, TR
Salty Dog Saloon
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Forearm Furnace
 1
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a TR
Abolitionists Fury
 2
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Cupcakes and Unicorns
 17
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Little Sugarlump
 2
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Princess Pullups
 2
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Thumbsucker
 21
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
B&O Burn
 25
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR
Forge-Get the Burn
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
The Founder's Forge
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Mojo Filter
 2
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Mojo Filter (right)
 5
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Grooving Up Slowly
 11
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Shorty Blunt
 1
V4-5 6B+ Boulder
Valley of Fear
 1
V3 6A Boulder
Damn Leaves
 1
V3-4 6A+ Boulder

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Balcony Jr. left side: Gravitas Free Zone (yellow), Tried for Treason (green), Cold Steel Corner (red), Salty Dog Saloon (blue). Salty Dog Saloon has a direct start that is unprotectable for 20ft, or can be approached from the left via a ramp.
[Hide Photo] Balcony Jr. left side: Gravitas Free Zone (yellow), Tried for Treason (green), Cold Steel Corner (red), Salty Dog Saloon (blue). Salty Dog Saloon has a direct start that is unprotectable for 20ft,…
Climber rapping from Potomac Power Plant Pump anchors
[Hide Photo] Climber rapping from Potomac Power Plant Pump anchors
Balcony Jr
[Hide Photo] Balcony Jr
A tiny tiny ice flow forms some times on cold winter days.
[Hide Photo] A tiny tiny ice flow forms some times on cold winter days.
Climber
[Hide Photo] Climber
Balcony Jr. one fine winter day
[Hide Photo] Balcony Jr. one fine winter day

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

cm j
Tacoma, WA
[Hide Comment] HEADS UP: This area is not included in the area closures at HF this summer, but I noticed a falcon nest there that looks active (not that I know jack about birds). NPS has been made aware. Jun 23, 2015
[Hide Comment] For those looking to get to Balcony Jr. from Balcony Rock, my advice is to not go uphill directly from the top of Balcony Rock. There looks to be a trail there when you start from the top, but it has been washed out in places before picking up again. There is an easier trail to take if you go left at the boulder right before the base of Balcony Rock. So if coming from Sandy Hook Rd., you'll come across a boulder where you can see Balcony Rock and a trail to the base of it on the right and a trail leading off to the left, you want the left trail. The trail isn't marked, but will be much easier than scrambling through loose rock and leaves. May 31, 2016
C S
Maryland
[Hide Comment] @JacobDE , Thanks Jacob. Your description is correct. The way you described is the way that has been lightly groomed over time in the hopes of establishing a common approach to Balcony Jr. Going the way you described spreads the hill climb over the whole distance rather than climbing uphill all at once up front. Jun 15, 2016
[Hide Comment] Hey, does anyone know about the new trail that has been put in that runs from near the top of Balcony Rock and heads *straight* over to the base of Balcony Jr? This new trail forks off right from the trail that comes up from the turnaround drive, just above where the "Train Song" block is. The new trail which has been cut into the hillside, heads straight over, flat and level, to the base of Balcony Jr. It definitely eliminates the steep bushwhack hill climb up to Balcony Jr from Balcony, and makes accessing Jr much more pleasant. Jan 2, 2017
[Hide Comment] Parking Update: officers are ticketing anyone that parks in the school bus turnaround even on weekends.
New Trail: there is an EMS access trail that runs from the school bus turnaround to the top of balcony and finally to Balcony Jr. It is well developed and makes the hike to jr much gentler. However, I believe it's also one reason why they are enforcing parking restrictions more strickly.

Trying parking under/around the bridge on sandy hook or at the MARC station in town and walk the foot bridge over the river. Mar 25, 2017
Brian Martin
Greencastle, PA
[Hide Comment] Thank you Access Fund and all else involved for getting Harper's Ferry open to climbing again on the Maryland side. I was told you were allowed to park at the bus turnaround for Balcony and Balcony Jr., but we got a ticket there today. Jan 1, 2020
Justin Wade
Baltimore, MD
[Hide Comment] The uphill slog is brutal, and unnecessary. Go to Balcony Rock, hike up the left side to the top, then go a little farther up, on a lightly treaded path, then left to follow the relatively straight and flat trail to the base of Balcony Jr. Watch out for the big jaggers on the trees and shrubs, and be careful on the slippery leaves an dirt. Feb 10, 2024