Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Balcony Jr.

4P Super Pump TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
7 Second Peel V0 4
Abolitionists Fury T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
B & O Burn S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bat Crack V0 4
Bat Crack low V1 5
Bright Lights V1 5
Cold Steel Corner T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Damn Leaves V2-3 5+
Forearm Furnace TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Forge-Get the Burn TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Founder's Forge, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gravitas Free Zone TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grooving Up Slowly T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
HorrorZontals T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Mojo Filter T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mojo Filter (right) T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Paymaster, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Potomac Power Plant Pump S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pumpmaster S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Punk Dunkin' V0 4
Salty Dog Saloon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Serious Callers Only T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Third Degree Burn V3+ 6A+
Tree-oh V0 4
Tried for Treason T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Valley of Fear V2 5+
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,531 total, 25/month
Shared By: Conrad S. on Nov 21, 2012
Admins: Frances Fierst

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Excellent route. Begin 20-25' left of Forearm Furnace, next to the black 3' tall step. Climb up to and around the inverted ramp roof to the left (alternatively, pull the roof directly) (a piece of fixed gear exists on the lip of the overhang at the crux). Climb up and then right to gain the left-facing corner then run to the top where you will find anchors. (Indy)

Protection

Rack of cams. Takes great gear

Photos

Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.10b/c
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.10b/c
There are likely several ways to approach the crux area. I started further left and traversed on decent holds over the large pile of green briar with a so-so C3 placed. The bolt feels more like a "yeah, the route goes here" type of piece that isn't really necessary (you can plug a bomber .75 about 8" lower) but it is what it is. Fun moves the rest of the way with great gear. Careful of the loose block a little ways up past the crux...don't think it's coming out soon but it's there. Nov 17, 2014