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Routes in Balcony Jr.

4P Super Pump TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
7 Second Peel V0 4
Abolitionists Fury T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
B & O Burn S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bat Crack V0 4
Bat Crack low V1 5
Bright Lights V1 5
Cold Steel Corner T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Damn Leaves V2-3 5+
Forearm Furnace TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Forge-Get the Burn TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Founder's Forge, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gravitas Free Zone TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grooving Up Slowly T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
HorrorZontals T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Mojo Filter T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mojo Filter (right) T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Paymaster, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Potomac Power Plant Pump S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pumpmaster S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Punk Dunkin' V0 4
Salty Dog Saloon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Serious Callers Only T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Third Degree Burn V3+ 6A+
Tree-oh V0 4
Tried for Treason T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Valley of Fear V2 5+
Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 775 total · 12/month
Shared By: Conrad S. on Nov 21, 2012
Admins: Frances Fierst

You & This Route


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Description

The easiest route here, but don't let that fool you. If you miss a hold, the crux can get significantly more challenging. Climb the blunt arete to anchors. (Indy)

Location

Right most route on the cliff.

Protection

SS ring top anchors available. Most people top rope this route though it could be done on gear.

Photos

Beautiful in 46F weather when protected from a 20mph west wind - almost t-shirt weather. Gear was good until the top, didn't see anything good for the last 10' of easy climbing on the ramp but you can escape to even easier terrain up the gully to the right and clip anchors from the top. Anchors are in great condition. A 5.6 leader might be better off on the bolted route just to the left of this. Jan 2, 2016
Conrad S.  
 
But in the fall/winter/spring, this wall is awesome. Jun 5, 2015
kyle howe
Knoxville, TN
  5.6
kyle howe   Knoxville, TN
  5.6
Gear options are few, probably not best for a new leader. It looks possible to access anchors for top-rope, but it didn't look easy. South-facing and very hot in the summer with no trees for shade. May 25, 2015