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Areas in CMC Crag

Chinos Slab, The 6 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Main Cliff, The 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Elevation: 584 ft
GPS: 44.092, -71.214 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: chinos on Jun 17, 2012 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall
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Description

The CMC Crag (Chinos Mountain Club Crag) is located below White's Ledge in Bartlett, NH. The area is made up of two different cliffs 150 yards down hill and left from the Pick O' The Litter Cliff. This is a fun moderate crag with most routes in the 60' range. The climbing here is mixed, so bring a rack to a #3.
This is a great summer time crag with a short (5-10min) approach and the river nearby.

Getting There

Drive north on 302 to Covered Bridge Lane,which is on the right just before the covered bridge gift shop. Follow Covered Bridge Lane, staying left at all intersections until you see a dirt road on the left, Ricks Road. (Unmarked, but it's a dirt road starting between two I-beams.) Follow Rick's Road for 0.8 miles to pullout on the right at a old logging road. (Just after a pullout on the left hand side over looking the river). From here walk the road for 300' to a small (seasonal) stream on the right (if stream is not visible, aim straight uphill staying to the right of some small moss covered slabs, until reaching the stream bed). Follow the stream bed uphill through some boulders to a 25' slab wall. Walk left along the base (stay low for easier walking) for 200 feet to the base of the Main Cliff crag. (5-10 min approach from the road).

Italic note added 2017-07-09 R Hall, NH Admin. See also Alternate Approach direct to the Chinos Slab cliff.

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Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
3 years after Jonathan's above comment, and I have to say the path up has gotten a bit "leafed in". Following someone who knew the way we intercepted the stream easily about 50 yds up, but maybe not so easy if you've never been there before. If in doubt, try the alternate approach direct to the Chinos Slab (posted in that sub-area's listing as a comment). Pretty impossible to get lost following the huge red blazes!

Marvelous cliff. I had my doubts (small...maybe buggy??) but really nice climbing. The rock is sort of like the "Still In Saigon" Area of Cathedral. CMC Crack on the Main Cliff is a gem; perfect moves, perfectly graded. A 3 or 4 star climb anywhere in the world!

We had this place totally to ourselves. Driving back home at 3:30pm we saw 16 cars at Humphrey's! (Previously I'd never seen more than 6 or 7.)

Also, if you haven't been on "Rick's Road" in a long while you're in for a pleasant surprise. What was once a wet, swampy, drive-over-the-corduroy-logs "adventure" about a tenth of a mile in, is now "paved" with crushed stone and "easy as pie." (Wait...isn't that a climb at Humphrey's???!)



Jul 9, 2017
Jonathan Steitzer
West Lebanon, NH
Jonathan Steitzer   West Lebanon, NH  
Checked this place out today after hearing good things about it @ IME. It's great, a fun change of pace in the North Conway area, beautiful spot, really casual. Definitely hit it up. - If you're here and have the time the cairns need some work. The trail up is along the road bordering the river, and the most obvious trail. Very short approach. Sep 24, 2014
chinos  
George Hurley and friends have added some more lines out here! I will post them soon. Jun 26, 2013
Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
Ryan Barber   Rumney, NH
Hoot Hoot, hit it up for Brewster Academy Outdoor Skills Alumni knocking out new routes! Jul 12, 2012
jimmi jazz
Denver co
jimmi jazz   Denver co
It's a very enjoyable place to go an climb. Most of the cliff is in the shade, so it's a good place to go on those hot days. Jul 2, 2012

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