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Routes in Bell's Beast

Beast T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Beauty T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Description

Beast has a granite white horned creature feature imbedded into its south facing flanks. This is at least a mile west of West Bell Tower and is the dark and seemingly forbidden rock passed by on the way to the normal gray colored granite rock towers on the better known "Bells Towers".

Though a much shorter and easier approach than the other Bells Towers, this seems more secluded. The buttress, on close examination, is not the choss rubble heap of loose quartzite as it has often been thought to be. Instead, it is a dark colored vertical column like "granite sandwich" sided by quartzite vertical bands. It would be interesting to hear a Geologist's more intelligent explanation for this unique natural creation in our midst. The result, unlike the compact steep smooth slabs on Bell's Towers, is very featured horizontal crack and patina-like climber friendly rock. Surprisingly pleasant rock.
Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon. Details

Getting There

Pick your Bell's Canyon preferred trailhead. Keep your eyes peeled to the "quartzite" on your left when hiking up canyon. About a mile after the bridge crossing, a huge rotten tree had fallen over the trail on this now very flat section of the trail. The rotten log has been cleaned away, but remnants may remain....the faint trail to Beast may be marked with some old slings on a tree off to the left (North) off the main trail about at the end of this short flat section.

Two things to help aim you to the path that will soon turn to the left (north) towards the creek and the Beast:
The old rotten log remnants near the path and a leveling of the path, with a marked trail cutting off to the left shortly after this point. This new "trail" is quite evenly aligned with the west scree gully descent path.

Important: If you can clearly see the white horned creature face feature on the rock looking straight across at it, you have probably already walked too far passing the approach and creek crossing trail.

About 20m up trail from the log remnant on the path just past a flattish small boulder on the main trail, veer left (north) and down and across to the creek crossing. This "trail" has a tendency to overgrow quickly due to its "boggy" nature.

Good idea to have a pair of water shoes or sandals to change into, seemingly no matter what month of the year you are doing the approach! Something more sturdy than flip-flops for the bog will save your regular shoes from the muck.

Some white climbers tape on a tree (also temporary) also points the way to the trail. Brown colored rigging cord also marks part of the way to get you started. Once on the trail, it should be fairly easy to follow the short way to the creek crossing. Here, a fixed line and makeshift log "bridge" (courtesy of Swiss Domi Hari and Bruno Matti from the Bernese Oberland!) allow an easy crossing. Continue on the path to a short scree/boulder field which ascends the left side of the formation. After 25m, skirt along the base of the lower wall. Pass huge overhanging quartzite rock and an old bivy platform (?) and after meeting the dark colored granite, continue until the very lowest toe of the Beast. Cairns may be of further assistance.

Other approaches are also possible but they will invariably involve heinous bushwhacking. The above listed option is quite painless, compared to other Bell's approaches.

2 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bell's Beast

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Beast
Trad 5 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Beauty
Trad 4 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 5 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
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Just went in and did Beauty and Beast. Really fun outing. Casual pace 8 hrs RT for both routes. I think we must have gone past the "bog" and up just beyond the "six-inch creek" but the "bushwacking" is mellow and short and there's lots of options to cross the creek- easy. I'm still not sure what the beast face is, but the feature is the biggest one with the white rock intrusion in the middle (see photo), just before the proper granite outcrops. The first pitch of the Beast starts at the lowest point of the buttress and the second pitch heads up through the white intrusion. For Beauty either start with the first pitch of Beast or walk up around left and then traverse (walk) back in on ledges just below the white intrusion. We climbed first pitch of Beast, then up Beauty, walked down and traversed in on ledge and then climbed upper pitches of Beast and walked off again, which was a great way to go. A single set of cams to X4's and C4's to #2 should be fine for most folks. Beauty is very good, Beast is worth doing while you are there.
Apr 6, 2015
ddriver
SLC
ddriver   SLC
We hiked in there yesterday, missed your cutoff (Its only 50 feet past the tree) even though we backtracked and walked by it 3 times. Maybe the lighting was poor. Wound up going up to the little sandy platform with nice trail leading to the creek, and a one-hop boulder crossing that was plenty easy in low water conditions. The opposite side of the creek has obviously seen a fair amount of wandering around, and it was very easy to walk downstream on a trail that got better as we went. Found your trail and crossing no problem.

A note on the sandy platform: you're viewing the beast through the middle of two pines. Nice framing.

On the exit we crossed your way. What a bog, even in late August on a dry year. I recommend the upper crossing if its feasible at all.

The "huge" downed tree rates as only L or maybe XL in my book. ;)

Good work on getting in there and out. The walk down was reasonable. Kind of Teton-esque, but in a good way. Aug 27, 2012

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