Type: Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: James Garrett and Dominic Hari (from the Bernese Oberland) 22 June 2011 FFA: Quino Gonzales and JG, 4 July 2011
Page Views: 1,930 total · 21/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Jul 4, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon. Details


Either climb the first pitch of Beast or after crossing the 2nd class grassy ledge, start 5m to the west (left) of the upper pitches (P2-P5) of Beast. Uniquely adventuresome and exhilarating climbing.

Pitch #1: Starts at the lowest toes of the Beast. Climb a long and fun pitch past 8 bolts and good placements to a two-bolt belay. 5.9, 60m.

Scramble up and left to the rock just to the east (right) of a prominent roof. 30m.

Pitch #2: Ascend the spur featuring scoops and swirls of colorful rock landscape past 4 bolts to a two-bolt belay. 5.9, 35m

Pitch #3: Surge straight up beautiful rock through some surrealistic bulges, wondrous placements, and 3 bolts to a two-bolt belay. 5.10a, 30m.

Pitch #4: Battle the Beast up a steep overlapping white quartz-like stripe past 6 bolts to a right facing dihedral under the roof which leads to a three-bolt belay. 5.11b, 25m.

3rd class through a fun knobby roof to a two-bolt belay at the top of the crag. Enjoy the views to the valley and upper Bells. 20m.


Shares same first pitch with Beast. Although rappelling the route is possible, the walk off north to the western descent gully seems most prudent.


QDs and set of C3s and Camalots to #2. Set of Nuts.
Extra 0.4 to 0.5 optional.

Nutcraft and gear placement skills are necessary, but opportunities are abundant.


This is an excellent new route. James did a great job at finding the line, visualizing the route, cleaning it as well as the access to it, and even cleaning a descend trail. The first three pitches are very engaging and have a distinct alpine flavor. The protection can be a little challenging if your head is not into it but there are bolts where you most need them. The fourth pitch has a well protected crux that could easily become a Wasatch classic. But it is the 4 pitches, plus the location, that make this route a short alpine line worth trying. I had a lot of fun on it. I highly recommend it. Jul 12, 2011
ddriver   SLC
Damn good stuff. Not a sport climb.
BTW, pitch 3 has 3 bolts, thankfully, as the gear gets a bit natty up there. Aug 27, 2012
Kurt Howes  
A really nice 6 hour car to car outing that cruises on much better climbing than what appears from the trail; a perfect blend of sport and trad. We didn't find the cut-off trail until exiting as it wasn't marked by cairns and is super faint. Some bog trudging may be avoided by cutting off a little higher from the main trail, just past the tiny (6") stream crossing. Left a locking beaner on route; finders keepers. I accidentaly made the crux section into a couple 12.a moves by going right of bolts instead of left. Camelots to #1; no c3's; some nuts. Good work James; thankyou! Jun 21, 2013
arichy Rich
arichy Rich  
A little bit funky with gear at easier parts but all cruxes well protected, especially the last pitch which is very closely bolted. The climbing is unique and cool, and the route is very well equipped. It would be silly to walk up and skip the first pitch of Beast, it's fun too. Apr 6, 2015
I climbed this route again a few days ago and I couldn't remember where to exit the trail to cross the creek, so we had to bushwhack a little. We found the trail going down from the bottom of pitch one, of course, because it is very obvious once you are there. In any case, it is helpful to remember that the point where you leave the trail and start hiking towards the creek and the tower is just a few feet before some big and prominent rocks on the trail proper. You can see the white feature with horns almost in front of you if you look towards the tower, THROUGH the trees (it isn't a clear view when the trees have leaves). There is no obvious trail before you reach the creek, but it becomes obvious after you cross it. I posted a view of the tower at the exact point where you leave the trail.
Sep 23, 2015
James Garrett
James Garrett  
A couple of comments:
1. In a discussion with Quino....yes the deviation and turn off of the main trail can be confusing. With that said, I have marked the turn off of the main trail by minor clipping and trimming a lot of the thick underbrush and even tied a brown thin tag line along the trail that leads directly to the creek crossing. Once you are walking along a very flat section of the main Bells trail, keep your eyes observing to the left (North) side of the trail for these markers. You should be almost perfectly aligned with the west descent gully of Beast formation. Again, if you CAN clearly see the horned white creature feature, you have probably walked too far up trail and will most definitely be bushwhacking:)

2. Finally, the last exit third class (rated 5.5 in the description) "pitch" is sadly the tragic site of a fatal accident that occurred last year. This very competent, experienced, solid 5.11 climber and very good friend of mine apparently slipped and fell while topping out on the easiest part of the climb AFTER climbing both BEAUTY and BEAST that day. Hopefully, this is a sober reminder for all of us to consider placing gear when possible even on the easy sections and to wear helmets....if not for yourself, then for your partner. Oct 5, 2015