Belle of the Beast
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Les Ellison, Kevin Lockwood, Brian Smoot and Jim Mutscheller, 2015 |
Page Views: | 247 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | bsmoot on Dec 2, 2021 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Add To-Do ·A well known and marked trailhead has been established starting from Wasatch Blvd. The trail adds some time to the approach, but is fenced off from passing through any private property. Stick to the trail.
Description
Start below a white stripe/section of rock at a fixed pin.
P1: Climb the dark granite slab up and right past the white stripe and a fixed pin to a ledge past a bulge. Continue up a corner on the right OR up a weakness on the left to a good ledge with fixed anchors. 5.7
P2: Climb up the smooth face on great rock using trad gear and 3 bolts to another excellent ledge, 110' (5.8)
P3: Traverse right 20'. Climb an exposed all bolt protected face to the top of the prominent gendarme 5.8
Descend via 3 raps, using one 70 meter rope. Be careful with the pulls as we got our rope stuck.
From the base we traversed down and west to 2 big trees. From here we traversed back east down a ramp to the base. From here we followed a rock slide down to the trail that is used for Beauty and Beast routes.
Location
Approach as for Bells Beast, you can climb the first pitch of Beast (recommended) to gain the upper ledges and then traverse about 200 right via 4th class ramps and ledges to the start. You can also bushwack directly across from the Bells Canyon trail to a rock slide which is just right of the climb. This approach is less exposed but has a few short sections of heavy bushwacking. This second option is the descent we use.
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