Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Mt Kenya

NE Pillar of Nellion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WI1 M1 C1- R
North Face Standard Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Point John T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southeast Face of Nelion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:

Description

Mt Kenya is a huge alpine objective with a large variety of difficulties and climbing styles. That being said, all climbs should be taken extremely seriously as weather can be fickle, even in the dry season. Rescue is far away or non-existent and you will be on your own if anything happens. Multiple people die every year on this mountain, most of them hikers, so don't let the presence of school groups on the approach fool you.

But it's not all grim! This is a beautiful mountain, made all the more incredible by its simply improbable setting. Ice, snow, jagged spires, long routes, and incredible flora and fauna make Mt Kenya unique in the alpine climbing world.

See the page for SE face of Nelion for a ton more beta. Pick up a guidebook from the Mountain Club of Kenya for the best beta.

Glaciers have receded severely in the past decades so take most maps and route descriptions with a grain of salt. Even the ultra-classic Diamond Couloir is barely formed most seasons.

Getting There

Mt Kenya has multiple approach trails but only two are well equipped with huts and infrastructure. Get a guidebook from the Mountain Club of Kenya and ask for information updates as approach beta is constantly changing.

Take either Naro Moru or Sirimon approach if you want to stay in huts - there are comfortable and well-equipped huts all the way to the base of the mountain on both sides. Other approaches are more scenic but require self-sufficient camping. Mountain Club of Kenya members can access the very comfortable, cozy, and well-equipped hut at the base of the mountain on the Naro Moru approach.

Porters and guides are recommended. Water is available at the base but not on the climbs.

Don't underestimate the altitude, especially if you are coming from sea level. Give yourself time in Nairobi, at the trailhead (1 night) and at the base (1 night) before climbing.

4 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Mt Kenya Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Mt Kenya

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
More Classic Climbs in Mt Kenya »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
Empty
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

0 Comments

More About Mt Kenya

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within Mt Kenya (123)

Most Popular · Newest