Type: Trad, Alpine, 750 ft (227 m), 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: E Shipton & H W TIllman
Page Views: 280 total · 20/month
Shared By: Hamish Wilson on Sep 6, 2020
Admins: BigRed

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An enjoyable alpine outing on mostly good rock in a wonderful setting. Superb views spanning Pt Piggot, Batian and Pt Dutton.  Highly recommended. Approx 7hrs return from Shiptons Hut. Climb early to make the most of the weather.

From Shiptons Hut head toward Kami Tarn and make your way over scree boulders toward the obvious gully at the base of the peak. You’ll know you’re in the right place by the open rock window high up on the Ridge above you.

Scramble or simo climb up the gully for approx 200m. Be sure to take the short detour to check out the view through the window. As the gully steepens you’ll come to a large ledge with a sling anchor. Belay here for the first pitch.

p1 is an easy 20m scramble with good gear to another ledge at the base of an obvious corner where the gully starts to meet the ridge. From here you have 3 options:

Variation 1: take the easy traverse left to the ridge crest. You’ll have to rappel down from the crest into the gully on the other side. Climb this to the summit  

Variation 2: climb the corner direct, following good cracks for 8m and then climb the steeper headwall (Approx 5.8+). Feels strenuous and a bit that 4800m!

Variation 3: a more enjoyable route is to head dialgonnally up and left from the anchor toward a crack system on the left. Follow the cracks upward with good protection (approx 5.7) toward a tat anchor at the top of variation 2 (see above).

P3. From belay head up to ridge crest, take in the wonderful view, and follow the ridge up to the summit.

Recommended Descent: Short rap to first tat anchor, then double rope rap (60m) direct to another tat anchor. Beware the risk of the rope catching as you pull it through. Be sure to check the tat slings!


4-5 runners, nuts, cams, sling for anchors