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Warwarsing Boulder Climbing

Elevation:	800 ft
GPS:	41.736, -74.185 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	2,441 total · 20/month
Shared By:	Anthony Baraff on Sep 23, 2009
Admins:	JSH

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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Please use the bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.

The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.

Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.

Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.

If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.

Description

The Warwarsing Boulder has a good mix of easier problems as a couple of V4s and a V5. This is a great place to go if you're worried about being rained out, just looking to get a few laps in the last light or can't find a spot in the West Trapps Lot and can't bring yourself to do the Stairmaster for the 1000th time. The big downside is its proximity to Route 44/55 and the associated car noise.

Getting There

The Warwarsing boulder is located near the entrance to the Wawarsing parking lot between the lot and Route 44/55. See the parent area for a more detailed description of the approach.

A Quick Note About the Problems on the Back of the Boulder

Greene and Russo, mention only three problems on the back of the Warwarsing boulder, when there are at least 5 obvious lines. U-Turn is easily identifiable, but the exact locations of Guardrail and Hairpin Turn are significantly less so. The included drawing and descriptions provide little illumination. Hairpin Turn's description reads, "Start on low horizontal. Climb face." Really? Thanks. Guardrail includes the instruction, "Sit start on low edges, climb small face. Climb straight up the corner." There's nothing on that side of the boulder that I would really call a corner. There is a vertical crack, but no real face below it. I've attempted to correctly identify these climbs and have inserted two additional lines. I've also regraded them, since several of the problems are significantly harder than Oncoming Traffic (originally V1 in the book, now downgraded to V0) on the front side of the boulder. If you have information or input as to whether or not I've correctly marked the climbs, please get in touch with me and I will make corrections. Also, please submit grade suggestions for all these problems and I will amend the published information accordingly.