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Routes in Warwarsing Boulder
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Guardrail V0 4 |
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Hairpin Turn V1 5 |
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My Brother Calls Me Jeff V2 5+ |
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Oncoming Traffic V0 4 |
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Phillipski V1 5 |
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Rumble Strip V1 5 |
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Slippery When Dry V1 5 |
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U-Turn V0 4 |
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| Type: | Boulder, 8 ft (2 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 391 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Anthony Baraff on Sep 28, 2009 |
| Admins: | RJ B |
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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Details
Please use bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Description
The problem starts on a low horizontal below a thin right facing edge and a small crimp one foot left of it. Shoot up and left to a small pinch a few feet up and left, a thin right hand after that will get you to the top-out. Feel free to use or not use the small edges above the start. This route is not listed in Greene and Russo's guide unless this is actually Hairpin Turn. Please climb and grade this problem so a consensus grade can be arrived at.
Location
On the back side of the boulder in the center, the problem starts on a low horizontal below a thin right facing edge and a small crimp one foot left of it. ![]()
The Back (West side) of the Warwarsing Boulder: 1. U-Turn (V0), 2. Rumble Strip (V1), 3. Slippery When Dry (V1), 4. Hairpin Turn (V1), 5. Guardrail (V0)
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