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Areas in Mt Kineo

Cliff's Left (Shawty's) 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Cliff's Right 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Kineo Ice Climbs 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Main Face, The 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 3
Overhangs, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Access Issue: Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description

Mnt. Kineo is one of the largest rock faces in New England. Over 1 mile wide and 800+ ft vert. It is generally southeast/ east facing and is well known as the centerpoint of Mooshead Lake.

The rock is a Felsite/ ryolite, very hard, and depending on it's orientation, either the most wonderful or treacherous stuff you can find. Native Americans prized the rock for tools and ability to develop razor sharp edges. It is beatiful to behold.

No known assents of this feature exist prior to 1983 when the main arret was FA by Bob Blair and Jonathan Stevens, (Trappah's Line 5.10) The route begins from the water and follows a natural course up to the top.

Other routes were also established across the face during the same period.

This behemouth of a cliff is undergoing constant shedding of all sizes and shapes of chunks so approach with caution. There is a well worn scenic trail to the summit and old fire tower. The views of Moosehead Lake are spectacular!

Getting There

Rt 95 north to Newport, ME follow various rts - signs to Greenville - Mooshead Lake region. Follow west side of lake to Rockwood, ME. Launch boat. You can't miss it.

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt Kineo

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI5+
 4
Main(e?)line
Ice, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Main(e?)line Kineo Ice Climbs
 4
WI5+ Ice, Alpine
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Jonathan Steitzer
West Lebanon, NH
Jonathan Steitzer   West Lebanon, NH  
Hey - anyone who's climbed this in the past, what's the story? Before we climbed this I called around to every guide outfit in the state and besides the winter ascents of Maine Line no-one knew anything about any rock climbing that had occured, but we found plenty of old gear and a mysterious shiny bolt line. Anyone have any info or stories here? Dec 19, 2014

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