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Routes in Snowy Mt

Asteroid S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Buckwheat S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A0
Iditarod S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
In The Buff S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Redneck on a Rope T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Vertebrae S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Water Streak S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
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Elevation: 3,690 ft
GPS: 43.7, -74.387 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 13,164 total · 120/month
Shared By: Gunkiemike on Aug 21, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer
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Description

South facing with little shade, but perhaps a nice breeze on an otherwise hot day. Base area is narrow and slippery, definitely not a place to bring small children or large groups. Terrific view of Indian Lake. The rock texture is what sets the routes apart here. Sample any of the short lines under the large roof to get the feel of the area. Vertabrae is a bit of an exception - it's more of a friction climb, esp. on P1.

Getting There

Follow the DEC trail (online reports suggest the "blue blazed herd path approach" mentioned in Adirondack Rock is no longer adequately marked). You might have trouble finding the climbers' path cutting off the hiking trail; it's not as close to the summit as the book suggests. Best bet - when you get to the obvious, large clearing just off the right of the trail - the site of the observer's cabin, if I'm not mistaken - you have passed the climbers' trail by 30 seconds. It is really quite prominent, and leads through a small camping spot, complete with wood bench/table. Follow the increasingly faint path as it trends right (toward the face) AND GOES DOWNHILL for 100' or so. I didn't see any cairns along the way. It took us 2 hr to reach the face from the trailhead.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Snowy Mt

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 9
In The Buff
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Asteroid
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A0
 7
Buckwheat
Sport, Aid 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
Vertebrae
Sport 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 8
Redneck on a Rope
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
In The Buff
 9
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Asteroid
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Buckwheat
 7
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A0 Sport, Aid 2 pitches
Vertebrae
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 2 pitches
Redneck on a Rope
 8
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
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Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
Mike--

I've been really interested in checking this place out. Are the routes really distinctive from one another and/or the rest of the Dacks? Or is it the setting, etc that sets this place apart from the rest of the Dacks? Thanks for posting! Aug 21, 2009
The setting is great. If you like Big Slide Mt, then you get the idea. OTOH if a long approach detracts from the day's enjoyment, go elsewhere. The rock is unlike anything I've seen elsewhere in the Park (except for Vertebrae, as noted). I can't speak for Redneck, since we didn't get on that route. But it's located close to the others so I expect the book authors' comments are spot on for that one as well. The "draws only" aspect and total absence of crowds have appeal as well. Aug 22, 2009
Jim Lawyer    
Chris -

Yes, the rock is unique for the park. Way more featured than anywhere else with pockets, plates, and ribs. This is the only place outside of the High Peaks with anorthosite, which tends to be more interesting than the gneiss found everywhere else. As mentioned, the setting adds to the appeal. A long approach, but that's also a good thing, keeping away the crouds and adding to the view. With respect to "draws only", don't forget the #4 Camalot if you want to do Redneck, the undeniable classic. Aug 28, 2009
Nick Weinberg
Orford, NH
Nick Weinberg   Orford, NH
Just went down there on 8/31/09. As for the approach, if you get to the large open platform clearing, you've missed the climber's trail by several minutes. The view from these climbs might be one of the best in the entire Northeast (maybe even more dramatic than Big Slide). We were able to do all of the climbs on the face. Buckwheat can easily be done in one pitch with some long slings and unclipping some draws on the bolt ladder. If you only do one route, you MUST do Redneck on a Rope. It is phenomenal. A # 4 does protect the tricky move getting out of the OW but is too small for most of the crack. We moved L to R across the cliff, finishing with Vertebrae. 1st pitch of this climb will be heady if you are not really comfortable on slab, with injury potential if you fall due to the low angle (not death, but this would not be a good place to sprain an ankle). Second pitch was soaked and covered in thick moss (unlike the rest of the climbs) - would be excellent if dry and clean. We had to dig the bolt hangers out of the wet moss, but we topped out at the fire tower with our packs on and then just hiked down the DEC trail back to the road. Great day. Sep 1, 2009
Jim Lawyer    
Nick - This is the second time today that I've heard criticism of the protection ratings in the Adirondack guidebook. However, we have not received any suggestions for changes in this area. Please -- if you find a protection rating you feel is inaccurate, let us know so we can fix them...especially if you think they are dangerous!

-Jim

jim@summsoft.com Sep 2, 2009
Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
Nick,

Other than Snowy Mt., what area's gear ratings are off, in your opinion? I would like to know, as well, so that I/we can have more efficient conversations with you re: specific routes, and make adjustments to the routes on the MP data base. Thanks! Sep 2, 2009
In August 2006, the cairns were overgrown with vegetation. When I finally located the path and stepped off it heading for the cliff I stayed high and right until I had to move left and then the roped traverse came into sight as I was forced to work my way down. The sloping belay ledge was three feet deep in grass and slippery. Snowy is definitely worth the trip, but get an early start. The rock reminds me of Red Rock Canyon, including chicken-heads. I am posting some pix from that 2006 foray. My non-climbing girlfriend of the time was kind enough to belay me.







Dec 7, 2010
Jaysen Henderson
Bronx NY
Jaysen Henderson   Bronx NY
i wasnt so psyched when my friends told me about the approach but regardless i tagged along and well, im glad i did. The climbing is spectacular knobby face climbing with some fun whaco's here and there. favorite line was redneck on a rope, i would actually suggest to bring 2 large peaces (a 4 and 5 would e perfect) for the beginning of redneck on a rope because the offwith would be a really unpleasant fall. but worth the day trip, also hit up the snowy boulders while you are in town. Oct 31, 2011
Dhane Knakkergaard
Intervale, NH
Dhane Knakkergaard   Intervale, NH
Did this the other day, and like everyone else has said, this approach is a little brutal. Just a heads up, the Beta says the climbers trail is on the right (not to sure where i read this) of the trail but this is incorrect as it kinda mosey's off to the left at what is basically the summit. Views were incredible, just wish it was drier. The rock itself is rad. It looks slabby as hell, but holds bomber pockets and all sorts of treats. Awesome, awesome climbing May 26, 2014
Norm Rasmussen
North Jersey
Norm Rasmussen   North Jersey
What is the possibility of new routes on snowy mountain? Or should we expect these to be all it has to offer? Aug 3, 2014
Jim Lawyer    
The terrain between Water Streak and Redneck is packed pretty tight with routes. Left and right of those...maybe. Aug 4, 2014
Norm Rasmussen
North Jersey
Norm Rasmussen   North Jersey
I see, I was more thinking between Redneck and Vertebrae. But I think it's pretty blank. Sep 12, 2014
jmbx  
The climbers trail is several minutes downhill from the viewing/cleared area of the hiking trail at a flat spot. Trail kind of runs out (as of 2016) but push on through trending right. As stated, I'd bring a number 4 cam (or 3 may work) for belayer anchor that you have to extend for the left climbs. Oct 1, 2016

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