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Routes in Snowy Mt

Asteroid S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Buckwheat S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A0
Iditarod S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
In The Buff S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Redneck on a Rope T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Vertebrae S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Water Streak S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
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Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Karl Swisher
Page Views: 2,235 total · 30/month
Shared By: Greg Kuchyt on Jul 2, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Classic, secure, and elegant. These are all words that would aptly describe the climbing on this great line. A destination route to be sure.

Begin up the left side of the pillar which steepens into a moderate offwidth section (5.8, 4-5" piece). Surmount the pillar then follow the bolt line up and left through the steep headwall on good edges/dishes past a short thin section (crux) More moderate terrain leads to a final interesting move before the belay chains.

Location

Start: 20' right of Buckwheat on the belay ledge with the low bolt.
Descent: Rappel the route from fixed anchors with two ropes or alternatively rap over to the Buckwheat anchors with a single rope and rappel from there.

Protection

4-5" cam, 12 draws
2 bolt anchor

Photos

Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
  5.10+
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
  5.10+
Since this was mentioned on the parent page I will cover it. A 4" piece allows you to perfectly protect what is probably the hardest section of the OW pillar (5.8). A 4.5-5" piece would give you more placement options and probably the ability to bump the piece. If you are comfortable at the grade of this route, you should be fine with the 4" piece but I offer the info all the same. Jul 2, 2012
John L
Fort Collins, CO
 
John L   Fort Collins, CO
 
Everything about this route was fun!

The length of the route is definitely not 180', but I don't know how they measure the length of routes, to be honest. We found a comfortable belay ledge at the base of the off-width. You can sling yourself to the first bolt of the A0 route to belay people (assuming no one is on that route).

From that first bolt, the route might be 130'. I was able to rappel to the bottom of the off-width pillar with a 70m rope. I then down climbed the pillar for 3-4 ft. Definitely can't toprope it but you can belay from the top - being able to hang 130' for a hour or so lets you really soak in the views!

I'm not sure if the book mentions it, but topping out this route might be a bit sketch. We didn't actually try it, though. Vertebrae may be a bit easier of a top out. Jun 5, 2014
K Swisher  
 
Yes, we didn't think about topping out from Redneck, although we probably should have. We did that for Vertebrae, so you can go on up to the firetower for a 360 view pretty easily from that route. Oct 31, 2014

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