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Routes in The Courthouse

Death Penalty T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Dewey, Cheetham and Howe T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Habeas Corpus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Opening Statement T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Power of Attorney T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Elevation: 2,718 ft
GPS: 44.177, -73.844 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,156 total · 21/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Jul 12, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

Description

The Courthouse is a small east-facing crag sitting on the shoulder of the 4th Brother in the heart of the Johns Brook Valley region of the High Peaks. Though only 70 feet in height, this little cliff, has clean, moonlike rock, a nice selection of moderate routes, and an unrivalled view of the Great Range.

Getting There

This is the crux of the whole day. From the Garden Trailhead in Keene Valley, take the Phelps Trail toward Johns Brook Lodge (JBL). After passing 2 lean-tos and crossing two brooks (Bear Brook and Deer Brook), hike for another 5 minutes or so. At the next stream crossing, look for a faint climbers' path that leads off the trail on the right and up the hill. A good landmark is the VERY LARGE boulder that sits very close to the Phelps Trail on the left. If you're standing at this boulder, you've gone too far! Once on the climbers' path follow many cairns (spaced out and not so obvious all the time) up the hill and slightly to the right. As an employee of the mountaineer told me: "You'll know you're on course, if you are bushwhacking uphill through knee-high nettles."--Good advice. The bushwhack eventually ends at a wet, mossy, slab. Go up and around to the right, ultimately getting yourself on top of this feature, then pick up the faint trail again. From here, the cliff will soon become obvious on your right after about 5 more minutes of uphill hiking. The trudge is definitely worth the effort!

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Courthouse

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Habeas Corpus
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Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Habeas Corpus 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
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Mikey C
Saranac Lake, NY
Mikey C   Saranac Lake, NY
Just a little approach beta- As of 8/2/17 both lean-tos on the approach no longer exist trailside, so best to use the (very faint) brooks themselves as landmarks so you don't end up on JBL's doorstep Aug 3, 2017

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