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Routes in El Piramidal

2112 T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
North Face Tour T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wackford Squeers T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shared By: Paul S on May 24, 2009
Admins: Tony Yeary, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra
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Description

This is the furthest right peak/tower that is shaped similar to a pyramid on the skyline as seen from the refugio. The north face of El Piramidal contains a number of quality lines and some of Frey's harder climbs. Most of the climbs are 5.10-5.12.

Getting There

The peak looks like a pain to get to, but it is actually a pretty easy and quick approach. From the refugio follow the trail to Laguna Schmoll. Once past the lake the trail moves up the steep scree field to Laguna Schmoll, follow this a short ways and use your best judgment when to head off of it to head up to El Piramidal. We found it worked best to scramble through some small cliff bands, avoiding any steep snow. About a 40 minute approach.

3 Total Climbs

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John Gassel
Boston, MA
John Gassel   Boston, MA
We found that routes on the north face of this tower can be sheltered from the prevailing winds that come over the ridge. You'll get hit by hard winds if you choose a route that does top out though.

It's also not always protected as we found out the second day, but it's still better than most I suspect. Jan 11, 2017
David Trippett
Squamish, BC
David Trippett   Squamish, BC
To the right of the start of "Los Bolsoneros"(a great route, but hard), there is a single pitch 11d called "Wackford Squeers". Hands and fingers through a steep bulge...4 stars! May 14, 2011
m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
There is a DOPE 5.11ish roof crack two pitches up this thing. Dont know the name, but a must if you're doing a frey trip. Dec 1, 2010

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