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Routes in El Piramidal

2112 T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
North Face Tour T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wackford Squeers T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 218 total · 3/month
Shared By: Jim Med on Dec 30, 2011
Admins: Tony Yeary, Camster (Rhymes with Hamster), Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description

This is a nice tour of cracks on the solid, orange rock of the North face.
1) Start with 'Mastropiero Nunca Mas' but veering left at a steep crack through a bulge (10a) into 'Gemidos de Buitre'- make 1st belay.
2)Chimney and jam a crack on the 2nd pitch of 'Gemidos de Buitre' (10a) until a ledge is reached- make the 2nd belay here.
(optional) Traverse left on a nice foot ledge, then downclimb to a bolted belay at the base of the last pitch of 'El Bolsoneros' (about 30 feet); alternatively, skip this short pitch and append the traverse to the 2nd pitch using long runners- rope drag is manageable and you skip the intermediate gear belay.
3) Ascend the steep crack through a bulge (10b) and continue past the huge overhang on the left to the broken ground at the top of the wall. Belay a 4th pitch, or camble up and left to the broad shoulder below the summit. Boulder up and right to the summit, or wander clockwise towards the summit on lower-angle terrain, enjoying increasingly fantastic views of Monte Tronador and other volcanos in Chile!
Descent: scramble down towards the West to a bolted rappel station down the right side of the North face- two 30m rappels followed by a short final rappel (one bolt) to base of the wall.

Location

Three obvious lines split the solid, orange band of rock on the North face- start at the base of the right-most line and work into the left-most system, passing just right of the huge rightward-arching corner that ends in a giant overhang. Finish on the left side of the big block at the top of the wall (see photo).

Protection

Excellent pro in solid cracks- Camalots #0.3-#4, consider doubles in #0.5 to #2 range. 1st and 3rd belays on gear, 2nd belay bolted.

Photos

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