Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 665 total · 5/month
Shared By: Jim Mediatore on Dec 30, 2011
Admins: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route

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This is a nice tour of cracks on the solid, orange rock of the North face.
1) Start with 'Mastropiero Nunca Mas' but veering left at a steep crack through a bulge (10a) into 'Gemidos de Buitre'- make 1st belay.
2)Chimney and jam a crack on the 2nd pitch of 'Gemidos de Buitre' (10a) until a ledge is reached- make the 2nd belay here.
(optional) Traverse left on a nice foot ledge, then downclimb to a bolted belay at the base of the last pitch of 'El Bolsoneros' (about 30 feet); alternatively, skip this short pitch and append the traverse to the 2nd pitch using long runners- rope drag is manageable and you skip the intermediate gear belay.
3) Ascend the steep crack through a bulge (10b) and continue past the huge overhang on the left to the broken ground at the top of the wall. Belay a 4th pitch, or camble up and left to the broad shoulder below the summit. Boulder up and right to the summit, or wander clockwise towards the summit on lower-angle terrain, enjoying increasingly fantastic views of Monte Tronador and other volcanos in Chile!
Descent: scramble down towards the West to a bolted rappel station down the right side of the North face- two 30m rappels followed by a short final rappel (one bolt) to base of the wall.


Three obvious lines split the solid, orange band of rock on the North face- start at the base of the right-most line and work into the left-most system, passing just right of the huge rightward-arching corner that ends in a giant overhang. Finish on the left side of the big block at the top of the wall (see photo).


Excellent pro in solid cracks- Camalots #0.3-#4, consider doubles in #0.5 to #2 range. 1st and 3rd belays on gear, 2nd belay bolted.