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Areas in Allamuchy State Park

Cake Wall 3 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
East Cliff 7 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Main Wall and Right Wall 20 / 0 / 19 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 23
Practice Wall 5 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Tic Tac Toe Wall 6 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Upper Lead Wall 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Elevation: 736 ft
GPS: 40.92, -74.749 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 33,644 total, 315/month
Shared By: Joseph D'Agostino on Mar 2, 2009
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Description

Crystalline granite cliffs in Sussex County, 10 minutes from I-80. Contains excellent slab, crack and face climbing, with 45 routes ranging from 5.2 to 5.11d.

Approximately 1 hour from most of Northern New Jersey and New York City, a great location for a relaxful day of toproping and short leads.

Hidden off the road, Allamuchy is nice and shady on a hot summer day. EMS Climbing School as well as other services uses the main wall on weekends during the summer. The instructors are friendly, but there are some shorter gems left of the main wall in the woods.

Gear: Standard rack to #3 Camalot. Long slings or static rope may be useful for top ropes.

Guidebook: Falcon Guide: Rock Climbing New Jersey by Paul Nick and Neil J.A. Sloane. All route descriptions taken from here. Don't be cheap, buy the book. Topos are great and include good photos, and lots of bouldering areas in the Northern NJ area as well as Central Park in NYC.

Getting There

From Interstate 80, take exit 25 Stanhope/Newton. Follow 206 North to the second light, turn left on county 604. Drive 1.7 miles, park across from wooden fence in one of 2 parking areas on right. Hike up trail into the woods, cliffs are less then 5 minutes from the road. (Be sure to fill out the Park climbing waivers at the trail-head leading to the main cliff.)

51 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Allamuchy State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Hi - planning on visiting my family up here over the summer. Having grown up in the area, I remember adjacent to 206 between North Shore Trail and White Hall road there were some faces. Has anyone done these on TR or trad? Jun 21, 2016

Sad news over at the main wall where the iconic spike has fallen from the right most corner climb. Made the start a bit harder and definitely not as fun. Does anyone know how or when this happened? Aug 18, 2015
Bolting is a touchy subject in NJ--the land of over-regulation. Anyone visiting Allamuchy will find some bolts that were placed there way back when. But NJ Parks forbid the installation of fixed anchors. (Obviously not a problem in PA.) Some folks did install a two-bolt anchor at Allamuchy a few years ago. It lasted a week or two and was most-likely chopped by other climbers with an anti-bolting agenda. If you travel around you will find many other states that provide fixed anchors for the climbing community--but NJ can't pull it off. Sep 23, 2011
NEGuiding
Matawan, NJ
NEGuiding   Matawan, NJ
Jon, the park system removed some bolts from there years ago. Bolting is dangerous in a place like that for liability purposes. No matter who installs them the park is responsible. I've been top-roping off of some of the same trees for years and they have yet to show any type of damage. One of our assistant guides is a Dendrologist and he's looked at some of those trees and says the same thing, no damage. Thanks for the input, I do agree though bolts shoud be placed on some walls. Oct 25, 2010
Jon O'Brien
Nevada
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
i still don't get why all you guides that make money bringing clients here don't throw in a few bucks and install fixed bolted anchors. destroying those trees is the sort of thing that land managers site when they close down access and many folks climbing here are top ropers that own a rope, a few biners, and a bunch of slings so gear anchors are simply not going to happen...

p.s. i'd do it myself but i moved... allamuchy's special: y'all should put some work into preserving it... May 7, 2010
NEGuiding
Matawan, NJ
NEGuiding   Matawan, NJ
This past weekend (June '09) I noticed a lot of the trees that people sling webbing around for top-roping are rotted pretty bad so bring a small rack and anchor up higher in some vertical cracks directly above 'A Year in the Life' or further down above 'Hourglass' in a 45 degree crack (lay on slab for gear placements). Jun 9, 2009

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