Areas in Allamuchy State Park
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DescriptionCrystalline granite cliffs in Sussex County, 10 minutes from I-80. Contains excellent slab, crack and face climbing, with 45 routes ranging from 5.2 to 5.11d.
Approximately 1 hour from most of Northern New Jersey and New York City, a great location for a relaxful day of toproping and short leads.
Hidden off the road, Allamuchy is nice and shady on a hot summer day. EMS Climbing School as well as other services uses the main wall on weekends during the summer. The instructors are friendly, but there are some shorter gems left of the main wall in the woods.
Gear: Standard rack to #3 Camalot. Long slings or static rope may be useful for top ropes.
Guidebook: Falcon Guide: Rock Climbing New Jersey by Paul Nick and Neil J.A. Sloane. All route descriptions taken from here. Don't be cheap, buy the book. Topos are great and include good photos, and lots of bouldering areas in the Northern NJ area as well as Central Park in NYC.
Getting ThereFrom Interstate 80, take exit 25 Stanhope/Newton. Follow 206 North to the second light, turn left on county 604. Drive 1.7 miles, park across from wooden fence in one of 2 parking areas on right. Hike up trail into the woods, cliffs are less then 5 minutes from the road. (Be sure to fill out the Park climbing waivers at the trail-head leading to the main cliff.)
Classic Climbing Routes at Allamuchy State Park
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Prime Climbing Season