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Routes in Main Wall and Right Wall

'MuchAid 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c C1+
5.2 T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
5.5 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
5.5 (Main Wall) T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
5.6 (Left of Hourglass) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
5.6 Top Rope TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
5.7 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
5.7 (Main Wall, Right) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
5.7+ T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
5.7- T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
5.8 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
5.8+ T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Touch Too Much T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
A Year in the Life T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A Year in the Life, Variation 1 Direct Start T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
A Year in the Life, Variation 2, Left Start T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blow Out T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Evening Visitor T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Foreign Invasion T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Hourglass T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Main Wall Traverse V2 5+
Roof Route T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Welcome to Waterloo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,636 total, 25/month
Shared By: Paul Shultz on Mar 3, 2009
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Description

Begin several feet left of the direct start, then climb delicately up and right on small holds. After reaching first bolt or bolt hole, proceed up.

Protection

Usually top roped, but if bolts were replaced, small cams and nuts can be useful above the last bolt.
Sincere thanks to Ed W. and Michael S. Both of you were apparently part of the local scene "back in the day". Combining your posts, the route descriptions of the Falcon guide, and my personal experience with Main Face, the picture becomes clearer: "A Year in the Life" apparently can(or once COULD) be approached three ways: 1.)From the left, by starting under the bolt for "Foreign Invasion--clipping that--then angling right to access two more bolts (now, empty sleeves) on the right side of the face and going up. 2.)Climbing the very-thin face right of the F.I. bolt to access the other two and going for the top. 3.)Coming in from good holds on the far-right of the face to pass the two (now-nonexistent) bolts and head up. All three variations are challenging lines...especially, the one up the middle...which I've never seen done, even on TR. The Nick-Sloane guide describes these lines as if they might be led, but with the two bolts long-gone from the right side of the face, the idea of doing that seems academic. Nov 16, 2016
The hard main face was led ground up by Jeff Gruenberg in the early 1980s. after being "found"by John Anderson who told me about rock in Byram... While the history of 1st ascents in New Jersey are being discussed it is amazing which names are missing. The group of us who cleaned and climbed here in the 1970s. Gruenberg climbed instead of eating, morphing into skelator, and digging out 5.13 traverses in the dust. We needed to find him fresh rock to eat, Climbing with him, myself, Dana Hauser, Mike Freeman, Jack Meleski, the Schlauch brothers, Eric and Mike, The Kondraki brothers, Andrew and Jason and other very strong climbers who often trained with out rope or even chalk...the hard way. Then late in the 80's 86, 87 or so J lucus and M McMcdonald and a new crew came along climbed it, all for the first time, again too. The cycle repeats
The bolts were added ten years later by Lucho, hand drilling not hanging on a rope, After the climb had seen five or six leads and countless TR ascents (lucho had it as fully wired as that rough but snot slick face allows). There have been many attempts over the decades, to leave permanent anchors and protection, as I herd here on M.P., only the studs survived.
The naming of the climbs, the development of the area as a guide zone, all happened when the falcon press book came out. Jul 4, 2014
Ed Wade
Hermann, MO
 
Ed Wade   Hermann, MO
 
When the bolts were still there on AYITL we used to do a variation by climbing to the first bolt of Foreign Invasion then moving up and right to a nice jug. You then clipped the 2nd bolt of AYITL and finished on that line Probably only 10a but easier than the normal crux of AYITL and not as scary as the run to the letterbox from the bolt on Foreign Invasion. I do believe Lucho put up most of the variations and AYITL. Dec 24, 2013
Jeffrey Gagliano
Pennsburg, PA
Jeffrey Gagliano   Pennsburg, PA
I just attempted an on-sight lead of this route. I'd go with 10+. Ground fall potential. Very spicy. Feb 26, 2012
ericm  
Also I believe the rock is a type of Arkos Sandstone-

Sincerely,
Eric M. Sep 25, 2011
ericm  
I think you are correct- Looking at it I remember a 5.9 up the center of the face. I never knew the name of the route though. AYITL is to the right and I remember the bolt even 20 years ago was old. AYITL I believe is about 5.10- with a harder variation that is somewhat contrived. There is also an easier corner to the right and then a face right of that protected with small nuts, RP's etc. Then a harder 5.10 right of that. I may be wrong about all of this because I have not been there in about 20 years. Sep 25, 2011
Eric,

I've done a lot of crawling up that Main Face at Allamuchy and have TR'd variations of AYITL. Truthfully, I think of the line in the photos as being closer to "Foreign Invasion" as the Nick guide describes it, with a grade of 5.9. Any background or further info. you can provide on the specific variations to AYITL would be much appreciated. I've often considered leading it, but the integrity of that first bolt is uncertain. It has to be quite old?

Mr. D Sep 15, 2011
ericm  
Back in the early 90's when I was learning to climb we went to Allamuchy, which at the time we called Buzzard Mountain. There were some old timers around then and I think the first ascent of this route was achieved by a climber named Lucio, who at the time was fading from the scene. Eventually I lead the route and most others here and then moved away. I still miss the place though- Does any one ever do the traverse left to right on the main wall?

Sincerely,
Eric Meudt Jul 9, 2011
NEGuiding
Matawan, NJ
 
NEGuiding   Matawan, NJ
 
This is an awesome route to climb! I had a lot of fun with the start, took a bit of searching but once you find the hand and foot holds it's nice! Jun 9, 2009