Elevation: 42 ft
GPS: 18.409, -66.141 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 92,339 total · 689/month
Shared By: Greg Pfeil on Feb 19, 2009 with improvements by Eli Helmuth and 1 other
Admins: Heliodor Jalba

Description

Nuevo Bayamón is the main crag in Puerto Rico due to its location within the main urban area and the number and variety of routes.

Many parts of this area are shady all day long, some are even in cave-like areas. When I was there it wasn't very crowded. I only saw one other couple climbing all day. Sometimes people walk up from the park to look around, but just spectators.

The limestone rock is nice. A mix of english-muffin cragginess and smooth candle-dripping laybacks.

Please consider purchasing the downloadable guidebook from Aventuras Tierra Adentro (http://aventuraspr.com/store/) The money goes to route maintenance. It is available as a downloadable PDF file from the website or as a paper booklet if you visit the store in person:
https://goo.gl/maps/5BNETox8AmEmZyFt5  The owner of Aventuras Tierra Adentro is a cornerstone of the PR climbing community, and has developed and maintains many of the routes on the island.

Getting There

The crags are in the park Julio Enrique Monagas in the municipality of Bayamón.

Coordinates for parking:
18.409135, -66.141252
https://goo.gl/maps/Yh7yZ4ukpAD2

Map of the hiking path that leads to the access trails for the crag:
https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/118270135

Map of the crag, sectors, and access trails:
https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/117370114

DRIVING:
From San Juan get on Highway 22 West. Take exit 10 to Road 5. Stay in the right lane and take the first exit on the right. Turn left and then left again at the stop sign, making a left to go under the overpass on Road 28 (also known as Goya Road). Cross a traffic light and make the first right turn, after the Goya warehouse. Go straight through the first intersection and the park's gate is immediately on your left.

PARKING:
The park charges a parking fee, currently $4, 7am to about 2pm, when the gate attendant goes home. After the park gate, cross the parking lot and follow the road to the right. Right after passing this parking lot, turn right, which will take you to a second parking lot, within sight, between playgrounds and gazebos. Park here. This map has it detailed quite clearly: https://osm.org/go/Y0SufmJ~j--?m=

HIKING:
From the parking lot, hike up the tar road that heads towards the woods. Pass under a rain shelter structure onto a thin and paved path. It will curve sharply to the right, past several mountain bike trails. Right after, you'll spot a cement post with a cairn (a stack of rocks) on top of it. Take the mountain bike trail that goes to the left and uphill from here. Keep your eyes and ears open for bicyclists. As you hike up, keep right at the first junction and left at the second junction. When you come out into a clearing or open area, keep hiking straight ahead and up. Pass the wooden benches, on your right.

ACCESS TRAILS:
At the uphill left bend of the road, you'll have the first of the three access trails on your right. It takes you to the sectors El Elefante, El Bloque, and onward. If instead you follow the left bend in the road uphill, there are two more access trails on your right side. The first is not that frequently used, and is likely overgrown and even not visible, but it goes to the sectors La Escalera, El Puente (Las Nueve), and El Mamón (Original). The next, and last, access trail on the right will take you to the sectors El Pasillo and La Escalera.

Climbing When Rainy

The rainy season can be frustrating for climbing. Rain showers will pass by frequently and the ground will be muddy on some days (and slippery!) but small or moderate amounts of rain doesn't mean you have to stay away. There are various caverns or overhanging routes that can have you climbing during the rain or immediately after. Check out:
Pasillo - the go-to for rainy moments, the back half is protected from moderate amounts of rain and features routes from 5.8 to 5.11
Ground Zero - two caverns that stay dry in moderate rain
Urticaria East - the route "Urticaria" is especially likely to stay dry after small amounts of rain and its neighboring routes will dry up shortly after
El Bloque - the part facing the Urticaria East sector has a 5.11 and a 5.12 that are overhanging. Also, the rock formation is a free-standing pillar so if the wind is blowing the rain one way (most days from the east) then the opposite side might be dry.
El Lado Oscuro - short overhanging wall

196 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Nuevo Bayamón

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 32
Paz
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 30
Guabá Man
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 28
La Cueva del Alacrán
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 33
No Refund
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 27
Jadihel
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 29
El Mamón
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 28
Sí, pero No
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 11
Controversy
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
Mr. Long
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Sángano
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 15
Me Cramer les Couilles
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 22
Neurosis
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 15
Horizontal Limit
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 22
Chocolate Sky
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 16
Shanghai Bombay
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Paz La Escalera
 32
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Guabá Man Pasillo
 30
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
La Cueva del Alacrán La Escalera
 28
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
No Refund Pasillo
 33
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Jadihel La Escalera
 27
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
El Mamón El Mamón (Original)
 29
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Sí, pero No Pasillo
 28
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Controversy Ground Zero
 11
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Mr. Long Ground Zero
 9
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Sángano Lost World
 6
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Me Cramer les Couilles Ground Zero
 15
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Neurosis Pasillo
 22
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Horizontal Limit Pasillo
 15
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Chocolate Sky Las Nueve (El Puente)
 22
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Shanghai Bombay Las Nueve (El Puente)
 16
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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