Pharaoh's Hat Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 8,000 ft | 2,438 m |
GPS: |
40.7118, -111.79 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 5,338 total · 27/month | |
Shared By: | James Garrett on Jun 1, 2008 | |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Access Issue: Private Property
Details
Trails and rock walls and terraces have been beautifully constructed on this private enclave. The owner, Ira Sachs, however, welcomes responsible and respectful climbers on these walls when there are no private events being held on the property grounds. Please be discreet and ask for permission while passing through the gate.
Many private parties, weddings, and gatherings are held here. When this is the case, out of respect for the people paying for privacy at these events, it is best not to traverse through the property to access the Pharoah's Hat or other climbs in the Pharoah's Glen area. The honor and privaledge to access this area is NOT a right, and certainly will be revoked if abused.
Many private parties, weddings, and gatherings are held here. When this is the case, out of respect for the people paying for privacy at these events, it is best not to traverse through the property to access the Pharoah's Hat or other climbs in the Pharoah's Glen area. The honor and privaledge to access this area is NOT a right, and certainly will be revoked if abused.
Description
Secluded and north facing with an absolutely stunning approach hike, this place is about the closest thing to paradise. Noise from the trucks on I-80 and the limestone mill across the canyon does creep up, however, so there are quieter areas. Climbers accessing these routes must respect the owners property and keep a very low profile while visitng here.
NOTE: The FA of Pharaoh's Hat (the tower) was most likely done in 1991 by Tim Broughton and party via a line just to the right of Cat In The Hat on left side of the North Face. Just above Hat Trick, two old fixed pitons were recently found. One has had a sling attached to make it more noticeable and has been incorporated into the easy second pitch of Hat Trick. The rusted ring piton has been left for historical value and is about 1.5 m to the left of the last bolt on the second pitch of Hat Trick. 5.7, two pitches?. Old weathered belay/rap slings around a spike of rock can still be seen in the notch 20m below the tower top to the SW. Tim told me they called the route Bitchin' Charmay (or Charpay???...I don't know dogs very well), after a name of a particular dog breed. Tim remembers the rock quality on his climb to be pretty chossy (hence the reason he did not report it to the Ruckmans), whereas the rock we encountered was NOT. Lichen covered quartzite, yet quite sound in character.
NOTE: The FA of Pharaoh's Hat (the tower) was most likely done in 1991 by Tim Broughton and party via a line just to the right of Cat In The Hat on left side of the North Face. Just above Hat Trick, two old fixed pitons were recently found. One has had a sling attached to make it more noticeable and has been incorporated into the easy second pitch of Hat Trick. The rusted ring piton has been left for historical value and is about 1.5 m to the left of the last bolt on the second pitch of Hat Trick. 5.7, two pitches?. Old weathered belay/rap slings around a spike of rock can still be seen in the notch 20m below the tower top to the SW. Tim told me they called the route Bitchin' Charmay (or Charpay???...I don't know dogs very well), after a name of a particular dog breed. Tim remembers the rock quality on his climb to be pretty chossy (hence the reason he did not report it to the Ruckmans), whereas the rock we encountered was NOT. Lichen covered quartzite, yet quite sound in character.
Getting There
Once the car is parked as for the climbs in Pharoah's Glen, the view to the south will reveal a sweeping eastern shoulder to the tower called Pharoah's Hat. Once on the landscaped rock stairway, look for a faint trail that veers off to the east (left) marked by red dots spray painted on the rock. These trail markings were painted by the landowner. Follow the dotted trail to the hinterland of Pharaoh's Glen toward the Hat.
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