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Routes in Pharaoh's Hat
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Cat In The Hat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hat Trick S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Magical Mystery Tour T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 280 ft (85 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | James Garrett and Harvey Sax, 1 June 2008 |
| Page Views: | 653 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | James Garrett on Jun 1, 2008 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane |
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Access Issue: Private Property
Details
Trails and rock walls and terraces have been beautifully constructed on this private enclave. The owner, Ira Sachs, however, welcomes responsible and respectful climbers on these walls when there are no private events being held on the property grounds. Please be discreet and ask for permission while passing through the gate.
Many private parties, weddings, and gatherings are held here. When this is the case, out of respect for the people paying for privacy at these events, it is best not to traverse through the property to access the Pharoah's Hat or other climbs in the Pharoah's Glen area. The honor and privaledge to access this area is NOT a right, and certainly will be revoked if abused.
Many private parties, weddings, and gatherings are held here. When this is the case, out of respect for the people paying for privacy at these events, it is best not to traverse through the property to access the Pharoah's Hat or other climbs in the Pharoah's Glen area. The honor and privaledge to access this area is NOT a right, and certainly will be revoked if abused.
Description
Pitch #1: From the corner ledge, climb directly up the edge(arete). Initially, some dirty (but easy) grass hummock 3rd class scrambling leads to a bolt and steepening terrain. Follow the arete past a few more bolts to a two-bolt belay. 5.7, 55m.
Pitch #2: Hop along the crest to the spectacular summit ridge of the tower passing two bolts to the final two-bolt belay. Improbable position and beautiful views. Sign in the tower top register and spray away. 5.5, 30m.
Pitch #2: Hop along the crest to the spectacular summit ridge of the tower passing two bolts to the final two-bolt belay. Improbable position and beautiful views. Sign in the tower top register and spray away. 5.5, 30m.
Location
After following the red dot trail for about 30 minutes, the hiker will arrive at an obvious and unique flat stone platform campsite. From here, Pharaoh's Hat is just to the west. Easy bushwhacking a short distance will bring you to the ledge system that wraps around back to the north side. Continue on this ramp to the base of the NE Ridge. The climb starts at the corner.
From the tower top, rappel 30m to the top of Pitch #1 and then rap straight down again 30m to another belay station. The 3rd single rope rappel will bring you to the same ledge system where you may rejoin the base of the climb.
From the tower top, rappel 30m to the top of Pitch #1 and then rap straight down again 30m to another belay station. The 3rd single rope rappel will bring you to the same ledge system where you may rejoin the base of the climb.
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