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Routes in Guanyin Gorge

Babylon Dream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Day After S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lijiang 1 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lijiang 6 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Project 1 S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Project 2 S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sunflowers S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Description

CAUTION: This information is current circa 2004. Be prepared for things to have changed, like everywhere in China

The river that drains the mountains and plains surrounding Lijiang cuts through a range of low hills south of town, on its way toward the Jinsha (Yangtze) River. The main highway from Dali to Lijiang (and from the airport to Lijiang) follows this narrow canyon. In 2002, the owner of a small café in Lijiang Old Town put up the first climbing routes near the mouth (south end) of the canyon. Like all rock on the Yunnan Plateau, this is another limestone crag. To date, there are 7 bolted lines in the canyon (only six appear on the beta photo; there was a new project bolted on the upstream (right) end).

Getting There

From Lijiang, head south on Highway 214 for about 20 km, passing through the toll gate, through a narrow gap in the hills, and descending to the agricultural plain. The Lijiang airport is a few kilometers farther down the road. Near the bottom of the hill a dirt road intersects the highway on the right. Turn on to this and travel west and back northerly, winding around some low hills and skirting the edge of the crop fields, crossing a bridge at the mouth of the canyon. The climbs are all on the crags on the west side of the river beginning at the mouth of the canyon.

7 Total Climbs

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