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Routes in Noonmark Mountain

Center Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kerr Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Old Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Wiessner Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elevation: 3,556 ft
GPS: 44.125, -73.787 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 5,613 total, 48/month
Shared By: Mike Caruso on May 1, 2008
Admins: Jim Lawyer
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All trad climbing on this small crag sitting atop Noonmark Mtn. If you like to tick off Fritz Weissner Routes this is a must visit. All the routes are short (100 ft) but are of high quality rock. The rock is exposed, weathered and sharp. The cliff faces SSW. The routes and surrounding views are well worth the long approach. We set up a fixed rappel line and left our packs on the summit, but walking back to the cliff base is nearly as quick. Long webbing and extra mid-sized cams help to set up the rappel anchors. Due to the high hiker traffic on the summit, we inspected our anchors closely before each rappel. Standard rack. You should note that there were no chalk marks on these climbs prior to our climbing. This is a great outing on rock less traveled.

This area is located in the Dix Mountain Wilderness area, and hence bear canisters are not required.

Getting There

Park at the trailhead parking for the Stimson Trail across from Roaring Brook Falls parking on Rte 73 east of Keene, and head up the private road skirting the Ausable Club and follow the signs for Noonmark. Take a left at the golf course. Respect the private property. The trail is well established. Approach is 2.1 miles and takes about 1.5 to 2 hours. It is steep in places as it ascends 2175 ft. The summit can be seen at about 1.5 miles. The base of the cliff can be gained by scrambling down right on a faint path shortly before the summit. The Weissner Route (5.8) and Center Climb (5.7) are distinguishing crack features to work from (see beta photos). The Kerr Route (5.6) and Old Route (5.4) are also worth doing as well as the variations to Center Climb(5.8 and 5.9) that can be led or top-roped.

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Noonmark Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Center Climb
Trad, Alpine
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wiessner Route
Trad, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Center Climb 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine
Wiessner Route 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine
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Hobo Greg
My Van
Hobo Greg   My Van
If where you climb is as important as what you climb, you will be highly rewarded by hiking up here. Rock quality is some of the absolute best around, and the views are incredible. The 180 degrees behind you is all wilderness. I would not call these grade III's though, they are straight forward single pitch climbs with an hour and a half approach if you are in shape. Oct 5, 2017

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