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Elevation: 7,000 ft 2,134 m
GPS: 36.5332, -105.7016
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 9,018 total · 43/month
Shared By: Jay Foley on Nov 10, 2007
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

Description Suggest change

Winter Climbing outdoors in Taos! A veritable sun-trap, the One hundred foot tall Solar Asylum remains in the shade until late morning (good for summer) and then the sun bakes the wall in the afternoon and evening. It is climbable on all but the coldest days of winter as well as nice and  cool on summer mornings before noon. There are a dozen routes (sport, mixed, and trad) with overhanging, featured, blocky lower thirds and upper head walls with technical, clean face and crack climbing. Top ropes can be set from above on some routes. See Taos Rock from Sharpend press or climbtaos.com for more route info.

Getting There Suggest change

There are THREE ways to reach this crag:

Q) If you are already in The John Dunn Bridge area then the simplest approach, if you don't mind the hike, is to scramble up the left side of John’s Wall then follow a cairned climbers trail that climbs up and back to the East first passing under The New Buff Wall, a smaller cliff with various short sport and trad routes and a good place to warm up. Continue past this wall to reach the Solar Asylum, about twenty min. from car park.

If the river level is low you can save hiking time by parking and crossing the Hondo Creek about 0.3 mi East of  John's Wall. Follow a faint trail east and up the switchbacks to base of crag, about ten min.

If the mesa roads are dry there is an obscure drive to the top of the cliff. This is the best access for summer mornings to avoid the steep hike up. Follow B0001 West off highway 522 north of Arroyo Hondo. Stay right up onto the mesa. Continue right and down the hill to the north on a DIRT ROAD passing left of an old pick-up truck and the Spanish Peaks road. Now head West toward the Rio Grande Gorge for one mile then turn left at the four way and head southwest continue just under a mile and park on a flat clearing. You should be just East of the confluence of the Hondo and the Rio Grande. HIGH CLEARANCE or 4WD vehicle. AVOID IF MUDDY! The Solar Asylum cliff top is Southeast from here. Rap the routes or find the Gully about 100 yards to the west that is also the approach to The New Buff Wall. Stay right (West) Along the base of the cliffs at the bottom of the gully to reach The New Buff Wall And left (East) for Solar Asylum. "trail" is faint but may be cairned from here.

A nice single track mountain bike ride, Horsethief trail, also takes off to the northwest from this parking lot.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Solar Asylum

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Squatter's Rights
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Right Again
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Guano Quemado
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 5
Onsight Rights
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
Sun Salute
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
Creek Feet
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 7
Sunshine
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Thermal Mass
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Squatter's Rights
 6
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Right Again
 5
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Guano Quemado
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Onsight Rights
 5
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Sun Salute
 8
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Creek Feet
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Sunshine
 7
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Thermal Mass
 4
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Solar Asylum »

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