All Locations > New York > Adirondacks > E: High Peaks Region

Gothics Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Gothics

L › R R › L A › Z

	Gothics Arch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Original Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Rainbow Slide - Over the Rainbow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Sagrada Familia T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	South Face Gothics Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Takillya Sunrise T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Unsorted Routes:

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	4,736 ft	1,444 m
GPS:	44.1258, -73.8586 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	35,068 total · 166/month
Shared By:	Dominic Albanese on Nov 7, 2007 · Updates
Admins:	Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Description

Gothics is a beautiful multi-faced mountain in the Great Range sitting between Armstrong and Saddleback. It is a great hike in and of itself and the cabled hiking trail up the exposed east ridge gives hikers an exciting "climb."

From the summit the rock in the area is clearly bountiful. Big Slide is visible across the valley with its bolted slab climbs. Basin and Pyramid (a side summit of Gothics) have climbing potential.

Gothics itself has climbing on at least 3 faces. The north face is the largest at nearly 1000 feet. The South Face, and the Southeast Face.

The North Face is no longer the clean slab shown in Mellors' guide. Though good adventure is still to be had.

The South face has some longer bolted lines.

With a long approach, runout slab, mandatory bushwacking, and route-finding problems, Gothics typifies the great adventure climbing in the dacks. Not for everyone, but for those willing to consider the climb as more than just the moves up the rock this is great place to explore.

Getting There

Gothics lies deep within the High Peaks of the Adirondacks. It can be approached from several directions depending on which face is to be climbed. For North Face climbs approach via Johns Brooks Lodge Trail to the Obed. Make a left and go up the drainage to the base of the huge slab. Hike off down the east ridge.

For South Face routes approach either over the saddle between Basin and Gothics, or from the trail that comes up from the Ausable lakes.

The Rings located at the top of South Face Direct are at the following coordinates:

Lat: 44.125235 Lon: -73.860053 or UTM (18T): 591201, 4886414

As Of 09/07/2020 they were intact and the cord was good. Using these we were able to Rap down with 1 70M rope in 3 raps. There are bolt hangers for the other raps.