Elevation: 4,736 ft
GPS: 44.126, -73.859 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 27,119 total · 172/month
Shared By: Dominic Albanese on Nov 7, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Jim Lawyer

Description

Gothics is a beautiful multi-faced mountain in the Great Range sitting between Armstrong and Saddleback. It is a great hike in and of itself and the cabled hiking trail up the exposed east ridge gives hikers an exciting "climb."

From the summit the rock in the area is clearly bountiful. Big Slide is visible across the valley with its bolted slab climbs. Basin and Pyramid (a side summit of Gothics) have climbing potential.

Gothics itself has climbing on at least 3 faces. The north face is the largest at nearly 1000 feet. The South Face, and the Southeast Face.

The North Face is no longer the clean slab shown in Mellors' guide. Though good adventure is still to be had.

The South face has some longer bolted lines.

With a long approach, runout slab, mandatory bushwacking, and route-finding problems, Gothics typifies the great adventure climbing in the dacks. Not for everyone, but for those willing to consider the climb as more than just the moves up the rock this is great place to explore.

Getting There

Gothics lies deep within the High Peaks of the Adirondacks. It can be approached from several directions depending on which face is to be climbed. For North Face climbs approach via Johns Brooks Lodge Trail to the Obed. Make a left and go up the drainage to the base of the huge slab. Hike off down the east ridge.

For South Face routes approach either over the saddle between Basin and Gothics, or from the trail that comes up from the Ausable lakes.

The Rings located at the top of South Face Direct are at the following coordinates:

Lat: 44.125235 Lon: -73.860053 or  UTM (18T): 591201, 4886414

As Of 09/07/2020 they were intact and the cord was good.  Using these we were able to Rap down with 1 70M rope in 3 raps.  There are bolt hangers for the other raps.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Gothics

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 10
Gothics Arch
Trad 7 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 6
South Face Gothics Direct
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gothics Arch
 10
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 7 pitches
South Face Gothics Direct
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad 3 pitches
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