Type: Trad, 205 ft, 2 pitches
FA: ACB Victoria de Quehen and Matt Dobbs, Sept 30, 2017
Page Views: 190 total · 14/month
Shared By: Matt D on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the dark, featured slab past solid protection in cracks and overlaps for about 30m (optional belay in good overlaps). The first delicate moves are a couple meters above the first placement.
Continue up flaring water runnels that occasionally take good, large (1-3”, camalot 1-3) cams. The rock becomes less steep and runout for the last 10m. Belay on the ledge in a good crack level with the base of Tea and Biscuits (5.10a).
The route can be climbed in two pitches or linked together as a single rope-stretching pitch, about 62m (205') total.

This line forms a more aesthetic approach for Tea and Biscuits (10a) or the South Face Direct (10d, accessed by down-climbing Original Route a short distance from the top of p2), and can be used as an alternate for the first half of Original Route (5.4).

There is no fixed protection at the top of the route, nor is there fixed protection at the base of Tea and Biscuits. To descend without continuing on the other routes, down-climb (or down-lead) the 3rd-4th class ramp of the Original Route.

The name is taken from Gaudi’s perpetually unfinished Gothic cathedral in Barcelona and is chosen in honour of the Catalan independence vote that took place the same weekend as our climb.

Location

The start is located on the slab about 20’ left of the start for Original Route on dark water-marked rock.

GPS location of route start: 44.124467, -73.860129

Protection

single set of cams to 3”. (the flaring runnels are unfriendly to stoppers)

Photos

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