GPS: 35.604, -79.277 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,474 total · 25/month
Shared By: Sean Cobourn on Oct 4, 2007
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry
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Access Issue: Temporarily closed. Details

Description

This cliff was discovered and exploited in 2005. When viewed from Eagle Rock, it is the third cliff to the left. doesn't look like much from a distance. Looks are deceiving.....
You had better like roofs if you venture here. All routes were put in ground up.

Getting There

Hike the ridge road for roughly a mile from Eagle Rock.  There used to be an obscure trail on the left after a big downhill but before it starts up the next big incline.  The 2016 fire destroyed the trail.  It will likely be re-established in summer of 2018.

22 Total Climbs

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Location: Black Bear Buttress Change
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Sean Cobourn
Gramling, SC
Sean Cobourn   Gramling, SC
From May of 2018: In 2008, according to Mountain Project, Eddie Medina and I drove to a secret crag we had been developing in a remote section of what is now Chimney Rock State Park. We established two, two pitch routes, Jacobbear 5.8+, and No Country For Old Men 5.10+. Shortly thereafter the area was assimilated into the park and we were politely asked to cease climbing on the north side of Rumbling Bald. I behaved myself for a decade. (It was hard. I had spent the previous decade developing new routes over there).

In 2016 the Party Rock Fire roared over the the area for weeks, burning untold acres of these wonderous mountains.

Last week a great new trail to Eagle Rock that had been built by Conserving Carolina was dedicated. As part of the process, climbing was again an approved activity for certain areas.

Today, Shannon Millsaps and I went hiking in the area. We somehow ended up at Black Bear Buttress. My prior trail was non- existent. The area was a post apocalyptic hellscape. Burned tree skeletons held up a blazing hot, blue, windless sky. Charcoaled rhododendrons and baked pine carcasses littered the ashy slopes.
We eventually reached semi familiar territory and found some shade to rest in.
We checked out one of the best cliffs on the Dark Side and got to the previously mentioned routes, the last on the cliff. Shannon went a bit further just to look around. I was kicking at the dirt and saw a dull round shape. I bent over and looped a finger through it and tugged. It gave a bit. I pulled. It budged. I yanked and 5 pounds of metal came up out of the forest floor. What is this treasure I thought? Clipped into two crusty old carabiners were two half inch cold shuts, a fat Metolius rap hanger, three Fixe ring anchors and six Fixe hangers, all with stainless steel bolts threaded through them. Quite the treasure trove! Eddie must have forgotten this $100 prize when we here here a decade ago. (I would never do such a thing). :)
The hike out was not as bad as I feared despite the extra weight in my pack and the icy cold beers by the river afterward were well earned.
Thanks to a partnership between Conserving Carolina, the Carolina Climbers Coalition and Chimney Rock State Park I got my lost toys back. Nov 5, 2018