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Routes in Black Bear Buttress

Black Bear Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Bear Roof T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Curpin Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desposyni T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Devil's Rejects, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fissures Of Men T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Illuminati, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jacobbear T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jam Sandwich T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b A0
Jesus Athletics T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Last Start, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Learning To Fly T C2
Lost Puppies T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1
Merovingian Line T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Middle Way, The 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Misquoted T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Country For Old Men T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0
Opus Dei and The Knights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Purgatory T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Samael T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thanks Este! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Aid, 100 ft
FA: Sean Cobourn and Eddie Medina June, 2008
Page Views: 266 total, 2/month
Shared By: Sean Cobourn on Jun 8, 2008
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Temporarily closed. Details

Description

Left of pitch 2 of Jacobbear, climb the left facing corner to the roof. Pull around left under the roof to an airy perch below another roof split by twin fat cracks. Pull this roof (crux) and climb the face above to a pair of rings. Two ropes needed for getting down and helpful for getting up due to rope drag issues.

Location

Left of Black Bear Buttress is a 50 yard stroll to a smaller, scruffy looking cliff. At the first wall before heading down to the base of it, seek a vertical wall covered with incut holds and 2 bolts. This is the first pitch of Jacobbear. Climb this to a spacious ledge and a nice horizontal tree to bealay from. The nearest corner up to a small roof is pitch 2 of Jacobbear. Left of this is an obvious left facing corner capped by a roof. This is the route.

Protection

Thin stuff for first half, big and small for second half. Only fixed gear is the anchors on top. Double ropes recommended.

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