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Routes in Society Turn

Frosted Flake V2 5+
Frosted Flake (Sit Start) V5 6C
Jump Problem, The V1+ 5
Long Traverse V0- 4-
No Name T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Yarra River Eliminate V4-5 6B+

Description

This is an easily-accessed area for quick climbs. It is not regarded as a great area but fun for afterwork workouts and sunny days in the winter. It is climbable almost year round. This has good sandstone that offers toproping and bouldering. It is sunny all the time.

Take the trail to the left side up and around on a short scramble to set up topropes.

Getting There

At the CO 145 intersection, turn right towards Telluride, then left on the first turn on airport road. Go about 200 yds and park on left side. A quick 100 yd approach and you're there.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Society Turn

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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NEKlimb  
Hiked to the far end of the trail today to check out the 20 or so sport routes and trad lines down there. Anyone have any info on them? Looked like a couple fun routes up that way. Mar 14, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Society Turn isn't for everyone. It is located a short distance off a busy intersection (for Telluride) leading to a fair amount of road noise. Many of the problems don't top out and the best/hardest problems are often contrivances or eliminates, and don't even get me started on the bat guano....

However, if you put all of that aside, this area has a lot to offer the Telluride area climber. The cliff is owned by the Access Fund, so access will never be an issue. It is almost always dry, including most days in the winter. If it's nice out, this cliff will be draped in sun. It is not uncommon to be able to climb in a t-shirt in the middle of winter. The rock is very compact, skin friendly, high quality sandstone (for the most part) and there are lots of unique and interesting holds peppering the cliff. Also, the approach is about 2 minutes.

As with any area, there are pros and cons. If you know what they are, and come to the area with those expectations, you'll likely have a great time.

Also of note is that there has been lots of recent route development (both sport and trad) on the more distant cliffs. This area is locally called 'High Society' and worth checking out! May 3, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Telluride Bouldering Beta Part 3- The Cove & Society Turn from Christian Prellwitz on Vimeo.
Here is a video I made this winter (2012-13) featuring some of the best problems at Society Turn. (It also features problems from The Cove.) Footage from Society Turn begins at 2:26. Problems shown include: 'The Alien Traverse' (v6/7), 'Yarra River Eliminate' (v4/5) and 'Frosted Flakes Sit' (v5). Hopefully, this entices people to check this area out!

The grades of some of the problems are different than the guidebook. This is an attempt to reflect the current grade consensus.

Enjoy! May 3, 2013

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