Waterfall Wall Rock Climbing
Routes in Waterfall Wall
|A Fistful of Awesome T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|El Sueno T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|For a Few Quickdraws More S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Hang 'em High S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|High Plains Crimper S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Mist, The T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Prince Charming Extension T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Prince Charming Left S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Princess Ella's Magical Adventure S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Princess Ella`s Happy Ending T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Shared By:||Jason Nelson on May 22, 2007|
|Admins:||Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionAlthough you're just across the canyon from the highway, it feels further away. Perhaps because the water is rushing over the cliff edge not far from where you are climbing, drowning out the highway noise.
This is a commiting wall to climb at since you will have to rap in and climb out. The alternative is to swim class 5 rapids. Located partway up Red Mtn Pass, storms can approach quickly at this location. The elevation here is likely close to 10,000 feet.
The location is just spectacular. There are other routes on this wall from 5.10 to 5.12. See the guidebook at Ouray Mountain Sports for more info.
The rock is a type of Quartzite and generally features lots of sidepulls and requires some balance.
Getting ThereDrive S on US Hwy 550 from Ouray (maybe 5 miles?), pass the alpine loop/Engineer Pass turnoff on your left, go another mile and park at the second launcher site sign/pulloff on your right. Directly across the street is a mine shaft. You will be directly across the canyon from the wall and a waterfall. About 20 ft. up the road from the parking, a faint trail will lead down into the trees following a ridgeline. Do a tyrolean across the top of the waterfall, and hike up the other side. You can rap in on a ledge near a giant pine tree (watch for sharp edges! Rap 35m and some down climbing or with 2 ropes) or scramble (4th or easy 5th class) to the top of the wall up a gully (go around the corner at the first tree to a ledge). Do not continue up the broad buttress or you will be nowhere near where you want to climb. Walk around the tree and locate and bolted anchor with chains and rappel the route. These anchors are visible from the parking lot just above the steep part of the all and to the right of a small tree. You will do 3 raps with a single line to get to the base of the route. You'll want at least a 60m rope.
Classic Climbing Routes at Waterfall Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season