Type: Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches
FA: Pete Davis, Steven Van Sickle
Page Views: 167 total · 29/month
Shared By: gimpmonkey on Jan 18, 2024
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This route wanders through the middle ground between Astro Zombies and Princess Ella's Magical Adventure connecting from near the base of AZ to the top of PEMA. Despite a mediocre first pitch, this is a fun route with good rock and some nice exposure.

Pitch 1: climb past one bolt to gain a right-trending, slabby ramp. From here, you have two options - climb straight up the first bolt line through awkwardly angled corners (5.10), or continue up the slabby ramp to a second line of bolts through slightly less awkward moves (5.9). Both variations end at a two bolt anchor on the low angle arete, 6-7 bolts, 80'.

Pitch 2: climb up the low angle arete with a bolt, move past a block, and gain the bolt line through steep corners then along diagonal features until easy ground before the 2 bolt belay, 5.9, 9 bolts, 110'.

Pitch 3: gain the obvious, left-facing dihedral and cracks above. Climb this 5.7 corner with good cams and wires (long slings will help), then head right onto the fun and exposed 5.6 arete with one bolt before the top. Belay at the PEMA bolted anchor. Gear: fingers to 2.5", one bolt, 150'.

Descent: from the top of pitch two, you could do two raps back down the route with a 70m rope, otherwise, if you top out, then the fastest way down will be to rappel PEMA where a 70m rope is also required. Or, continue past the PEMA belay up easy ledges to the belay/rappel anchor at the base of the Prince Charming extension pitch. Use this anchor to rap down the big slab to another anchor at the base of Hollywood Babylon and on down again to intersect with Astro Zombies 3rd pitch anchor to continue down this route (or up!). This way will drop you a lot closer to your packs at the base and allow one to get some extra pitches in.

Location Suggest change

Approach as for Astro Zombies. From the base of AZ, move right and up into a gully until you locate the first bolt on the wall to the right.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts/trad. 9 quickdraws, one set of cams -- fingers to 2.5", and a few stoppers.