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Routes in Waterfall Wall

A Fistful of Awesome T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
El Sueno T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
For a Few Quickdraws More S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hang 'em High S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
High Plains Crimper S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mist, The T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Prince Charming Extension T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prince Charming Left S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Princess Ella's Magical Adventure S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Princess Ella`s Happy Ending T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 270 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Skoloda, Jackson, Jackson
Page Views: 7,521 total, 100/month
Shared By: Fleetwood Matt on Oct 12, 2011
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a scenic, little, 4-pitch outing on Red Mountain Pass. It has a short approach, great views, and solid quartzite rock. There is an exciting headwall finish. Thanks to the first ascensionists for the work to put in this nice moderate (think bell-shaped curve.) Bring granny!

Location

Approach as for the Waterfall Wall. There is a new tyrolean that was installed fall 2011. After the tyrolean, head right up a gully then go climber's left (south) along the base of the cliff maybe 150 yards. Princess Ella's Magical Adventure starts at the toe of a small buttress maybe 30 feet above the creek. Shiny bolts head up 75 feet to a ledge and a big pine. 3 more pitches of friendly bolts get you up the headwall finish to a big ledge and great views.

Descend with 4 raps with a single 70m rope.

There are a few loose rocks, but overall it has great rock. You can scope it from the highway 100 yards south of the parking spot, just above a scree slope that goes all the way to the creek.

Protection

11 quickdraws. Anchor slings. Rap device. Single 70m rope. Helmet.
PapaofEleanor
grand junction, colorado
PapaofEleanor   grand junction, colorado
For what it's worth...pretty reasonable way to do descent from top of fourth pitch with single 60m rope. Either lower/single fixed line rap of 2nd/3rd etc back to top of 3rd pitch rap/belay station. Last one down raps with single 60 to first bolt clipped on way up; nice stance here to pull rope (or have partner pull...just need to keep a grip on rope for retying in); once rope is down tie back in and do very moderate belayed downclimb about 8-10'. Then 3 more single 60m raps, more orthodox, get you to the base. Jul 30, 2016
Erik in CO
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Erik in CO   Colorado Springs, CO
 
At least one extended draw on pitch 3 would be nice. Otherwise you end up with a fair amount of rope drag by the end. Jul 25, 2014
Great route and very fun relaxing multi-pitch. You can combine pitch 1 and 2 on the way up, two extendable draws will help if you combine but probably aren't absolutely necessary. Sep 22, 2013
Ben Coyle
durango co
 
Ben Coyle   durango co
 
Beta video of the descent on this classic, moderate route.
youtu.be/K9uBbnxC5N0 Jun 24, 2013
shmancy  
Had a great time on this route, my phone app didn't have all the info on the last pitch variation, so we ended up doing the Happy Ending which was very nice, but we could have used a cam or two. We will go back to do the standard ending. Lots of fun! Aug 4, 2012
Jeff's firstborn is Princess Ella. Jul 18, 2012
chosspector
San Juans, CO
chosspector   San Juans, CO
What's up with the name? Jul 17, 2012