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Routes in Waterfall Wall

A Fistful of Awesome T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
El Sueno T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
For a Few Quickdraws More S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hang 'em High S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
High Plains Crimper S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mist, The T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Prince Charming Extension T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prince Charming Left S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Princess Ella's Magical Adventure S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Princess Ella`s Happy Ending T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 270 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Skoloda, Jackson, Jackson
Page Views: 8,753 total · 101/month
Shared By: Fleetwood Matt on Oct 12, 2011
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a scenic, little, 4-pitch outing on Red Mountain Pass. It has a short approach, great views, and solid quartzite rock. There is an exciting headwall finish. Thanks to the first ascensionists for the work to put in this nice moderate (think bell-shaped curve.) Bring granny!

Location

Approach as for the Waterfall Wall. There is a new tyrolean that was installed fall 2011. After the tyrolean, head right up a gully then go climber's left (south) along the base of the cliff maybe 150 yards. Princess Ella's Magical Adventure starts at the toe of a small buttress maybe 30 feet above the creek. Shiny bolts head up 75 feet to a ledge and a big pine. 3 more pitches of friendly bolts get you up the headwall finish to a big ledge and great views.

Descend with 4 raps with a single 70m rope.

There are a few loose rocks, but overall it has great rock. You can scope it from the highway 100 yards south of the parking spot, just above a scree slope that goes all the way to the creek.

Protection

11 quickdraws. Anchor slings. Rap device. Single 70m rope. Helmet.
chosspector
San Juans, CO
chosspector   San Juans, CO
What's up with the name? Jul 17, 2012
Fleetwood Matt
  5.8+
Fleetwood Matt  
  5.8+
Jeff's firstborn is Princess Ella. Jul 18, 2012
shmancy  
Had a great time on this route, my phone app didn't have all the info on the last pitch variation, so we ended up doing the Happy Ending which was very nice, but we could have used a cam or two. We will go back to do the standard ending. Lots of fun! Aug 4, 2012
Ben Coyle
durango co
 
Ben Coyle   durango co
 
Beta video of the descent on this classic, moderate route.
youtu.be/K9uBbnxC5N0 Jun 24, 2013
Great route and very fun relaxing multi-pitch. You can combine pitch 1 and 2 on the way up, two extendable draws will help if you combine but probably aren't absolutely necessary. Sep 22, 2013
Erik in CO
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Erik in CO   Colorado Springs, CO
 
At least one extended draw on pitch 3 would be nice. Otherwise you end up with a fair amount of rope drag by the end. Jul 25, 2014
PapaofEleanor
grand junction, colorado
PapaofEleanor   grand junction, colorado
For what it's worth...pretty reasonable way to do descent from top of fourth pitch with single 60m rope. Either lower/single fixed line rap of 2nd/3rd etc back to top of 3rd pitch rap/belay station. Last one down raps with single 60 to first bolt clipped on way up; nice stance here to pull rope (or have partner pull...just need to keep a grip on rope for retying in); once rope is down tie back in and do very moderate belayed downclimb about 8-10'. Then 3 more single 60m raps, more orthodox, get you to the base. Jul 30, 2016
Jeremy Werlin
Cedaredge, CO
Jeremy Werlin   Cedaredge, CO
There is something magic about this route.... Good one to take that beginner friend on for a fun adventure. Two beta tips: if there is another party on the route, beware that there is a lot of loose rock on the belay ledges, and if there is a breeze at the pullout down low, it might be howling at the top. May 27, 2018
Chris Adams
Mesa, AZ
  5.8
Chris Adams   Mesa, AZ
  5.8
Climbed PEMA on a beautful summer morning! The climb caught sun fairly quickly and warmed up fast.

The tyrolean traverse lines appear to be in good shape.

Approach beta: ascend the loose gully, and look for a trail on the left before ascending the gully to the right.

The climb itself was very enjoyable, and the final pitch was my favorite with fun movement and a couple bomber hand jams, not that they’re needed but certainly welcomed. I felt the climb wasn’t anything past 5.8 and just barely that. It also seemed fairly well-protected.

Route beta: P1 and P2 are easily combined. P2 has only 1 bolt. Take the left bolt line at the start of pitch 4 for PEMA, and take the right (straight up) bolt line for the Happy Ending (10a and a little runout at the roof). Aug 6, 2018
Jordan Weiler
Durango
 
Jordan Weiler   Durango
 
Super cruiser multi-pitch and in my opinion one of the best for a 1st timer. Easily can be done in a few hours. I would definitely combine P1 and P2, as P2 isn't really a pitch more of a scramble with a low 5th Class section of 10ft. P4 is definitely the money, flip a coin for whoever gets that lead. I've done it twice now just for that 4th pitch. Sep 30, 2018

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