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Routes in Liberty Cap

A Joint Adventure 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3
Bad Moon Rising 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2
Direct Southwest Face route 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+
Mahtah T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Oh No T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A0
Passport to the Sky 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1
Patriot Act, The 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3+
Scarface 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Scarface (Free) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Southwest Face 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2+
Steel on Steel Wall T A4+
Stiff Upper Lip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3+
Turkey Shoot 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
West Buttress route 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3
Wild World A5-

Description

Liberty Cap is located between Mt. Broderick and Nevada falls on the John Muir Trail. Climbing in such an iconic setting is just part of the draw to this dome. Warren Harding made his mark, right up the middle as usual, completing the First ascent of the SW face. It was on this ascent that the practice of drilling holes for upward progression(bathooking)was first used.

The stone is bullet hard Half Dome granodiorite. With it's many splitter cracks and huge corners, Liberty cap tends to be very cam friendly on most of the routes. The summit offers a 360 degree view of little yosemite valley, Mt. Starking, and the huge S. face of Half dome.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Getting There

Begin by starting on the "Mist" trail which is the start of the JMT. You will follow the trail past Vernal Falls, across a bridge, where Liberty Cap finally comes into full view. As you make your way toward Nevada Falls, right when the trail touches the apron, you head climbers left along the base. Follow this down and around to the Western end of the formation.

A large diagonal approach ledge is gained at the far left end of the base. Great care is necessary along this ledge especially if you are shuttling gear. Many spots along the way are loose.

There is a rappel anchor located at the start of the SW face route. A 2 rope rappel to an intermediate anchor on the face , then another 2 rope rappel to the ground brings you to the base directly under the middle of the wall. Another option is to haul from these anchors if you fix 2 ropes down to the ground for your ascent.



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Classic Climbing Routes at Liberty Cap

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Anyone know of routes that exist on the north west(slabby) face of liberty cap? Apr 11, 2013

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