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Liberty Cap Rock Climbing
Routes in F. Liberty Cap
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A Joint Adventure 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3 |
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Bad Moon Rising 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2 |
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Controlled Substance T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Direct Southwest Face route 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+ |
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Mahtah T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Nebulous Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2 |
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Oh No T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 |
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Passport to the Sky 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1 |
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Patriot Act, The 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3+ |
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Scarface 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 |
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Scarface (Free) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Southwest Face 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2+ |
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Steel on Steel Wall T A4+ |
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Stiff Upper Lip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3+ |
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Turkey Shoot 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Vessels of Wrath T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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West Buttress route 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3 |
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Wild World A5- |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
| Elevation: | 6,322 ft | 1,927 m |
| GPS: |
37.7275, -119.53364 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 52,186 total · 242/month | |
| Shared By: | mucci on Apr 2, 2007 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Liberty Cap is located between Mt. Broderick and Nevada falls on the John Muir Trail. Climbing in such an iconic setting is just part of the draw to this dome. Warren Harding made his mark, right up the middle as usual, completing the First ascent of the SW face. It was on this ascent that the practice of drilling holes for upward progression(bathooking) was first used.
The stone is bullet hard Half Dome granodiorite. With it's many splitter cracks and huge corners, Liberty cap tends to be very cam friendly on most of the routes. The summit offers a 360 degree view of little yosemite valley, Mt. Starking, and the huge S. face of Half dome.
Getting There
Begin by starting on the "Mist" trail which is the start of the JMT. You will follow the trail past Vernal Falls, across a bridge, where Liberty Cap finally comes into full view. As you make your way toward Nevada Falls, right when the trail touches the apron, you head climbers left along the base. Follow this down and around to the Western end of the formation.
A large diagonal approach ledge is gained at the far left end of the base. Great care is necessary along this ledge especially if you are shuttling gear. Many spots along the way are loose.
There is a rappel anchor located at the start of the SW face route. A 2 rope rappel to an intermediate anchor on the face , then another 2 rope rappel to the ground brings you to the base directly under the middle of the wall. Another option is to haul from these anchors if you fix 2 ropes down to the ground for your ascent.
A large diagonal approach ledge is gained at the far left end of the base. Great care is necessary along this ledge especially if you are shuttling gear. Many spots along the way are loose.
There is a rappel anchor located at the start of the SW face route. A 2 rope rappel to an intermediate anchor on the face , then another 2 rope rappel to the ground brings you to the base directly under the middle of the wall. Another option is to haul from these anchors if you fix 2 ropes down to the ground for your ascent.
Classic Climbing Routes at Liberty Cap
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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