Elevation: 7,076 ft
GPS: 37.728, -119.534 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 21,762 total · 153/month
Shared By: mucci on Apr 2, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes
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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Liberty Cap is located between Mt. Broderick and Nevada falls on the John Muir Trail. Climbing in such an iconic setting is just part of the draw to this dome. Warren Harding made his mark, right up the middle as usual, completing the First ascent of the SW face. It was on this ascent that the practice of drilling holes for upward progression(bathooking)was first used.

The stone is bullet hard Half Dome granodiorite. With it's many splitter cracks and huge corners, Liberty cap tends to be very cam friendly on most of the routes. The summit offers a 360 degree view of little yosemite valley, Mt. Starking, and the huge S. face of Half dome.

Getting There

Begin by starting on the "Mist" trail which is the start of the JMT. You will follow the trail past Vernal Falls, across a bridge, where Liberty Cap finally comes into full view. As you make your way toward Nevada Falls, right when the trail touches the apron, you head climbers left along the base. Follow this down and around to the Western end of the formation.

A large diagonal approach ledge is gained at the far left end of the base. Great care is necessary along this ledge especially if you are shuttling gear. Many spots along the way are loose.

There is a rappel anchor located at the start of the SW face route. A 2 rope rappel to an intermediate anchor on the face , then another 2 rope rappel to the ground brings you to the base directly under the middle of the wall. Another option is to haul from these anchors if you fix 2 ropes down to the ground for your ascent.

15 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Liberty Cap

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2+
 31
Southwest Face
Aid 11 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 15
Scarface (Free)
Trad 12 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Southwest Face
 31
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2+ Aid 11 pitches
Scarface (Free)
 15
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad 12 pitches
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Anyone know of routes that exist on the north west(slabby) face of liberty cap? Apr 11, 2013