Fisherman's Buttress Area Rock Climbing
|GPS:||34.24, -116.969 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||C Miller on Mar 7, 2007|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThe Fisherman's Buttress Area is located on the south side of Big Bear Lake about 0.5 miles from the dam and offers fantastic climbing with marvelous scenery and, for the most part, a minimal approach. Crags in the area include Fisherman's Buttress, the Underworld, Toetally Broken Buttress and Throne Of The Mountain Gods.
The largest and most developed crag in the area is Fisherman's Buttress with climbs that tend to be short and technical with crimpy moves and thoughtful sequences. The thirty routes at Fisherman's Butrress range from 5.5 to 5.12, although the bulk of the better routes are in the 5.11 and up range making it a good alternative to the nearby Holcomb Valley Pinnacles. Recommended routes here include Roadside Crack (5.10a), Trout Fishing in America (5.11b), Big Mouth Fever (5.11c), Catch of the Day (5.11c), Rumblefish (5.11d), Trouser Trout (5.12a) and Check Your Fly (5.12a) among others.
Slightly further up the hillside from Fisherman's Buttress is the Underworld - a small but nice crag with a handful of routes from 5.8 to 5.11a. Both Purgatory (5.10b) and Downward Spiral (5.11a) are highly recommended routes to do at this crag.
The nearby Toetally Broken Buttress is not especially appealing but those who make the hike up to the Throne Of The Mountain Gods are rewarded with three short, but high quality routes in a remote setting. All three - Aphrodite (5.10c), Apollo (5.11b) and Lord, Have Mercy (5.12a) are worth doing.
Getting ThereTo approach the routes on the Toetally Broken Buttress and the Throne Of The Mountain Gods park in a large paved pullout 0.4 miles from the dam on the south side of Big Bear Lake. Carefully cross the highway and follow a trail uphill alongside Kidd Creek. Hike 200 meters uphill through rough terrain and boulders until some larger rocks come into view on the left side of the creek. Head left up the hillside here to reach the base of the Underworld (this is about a 15 minute approach).
Toetally Broken Buttress is located a little further past the turnoff for the Underworld and faces west (10-15 minute approach), while The Throne Of The Mountain Gods is reached by hiking up Kidd Creek until it levels out, where it will be found on the left side of the trail facing west (about a 30-40 minute approach).
Fisherman's Buttress is easily reached by driving 0.6 miles from the dam at Big Bear Lake on the south shore of the lake. Limited parking is available at three nearby spots - 1) a short distance east of the crag in a dirt pullout on the right side (south) of the road which fits about three vehicles, 2) across the road from #1 with room for a car or two, and 3) to the west (towards the dam) on the lake side (left) of the paved road with room for about five or six vehicles.
From parking location #1 and #2 head upslope and follow a faint trail through boulders which quickly improves. Follow this to Three Fishes Rock and on to the east face of Fisherman's Buttress. From parking location #3 cross the road carefully, and then head uphill to join a trail which leads to the west face of Fisherman's Buttress. Plan on about a five minute approach.
Classic Climbing Routes at Fisherman's Buttress Area
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season