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Elevation: 6,932 ft
GPS: 34.2401, -116.96887
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 57,087 total · 275/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 7, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

The Fisherman's Buttress Area is located on the south side of Big Bear Lake about 0.5 miles from the dam and offers fantastic climbing with marvelous scenery and, for the most part, a minimal approach. Crags in the area include Fisherman's Buttress, The UnderworldToetally Broken Buttress and Throne of The Mountain Gods.

The largest and most developed crag in the area is Fisherman's Buttress with climbs that tend to be short and technical with crimpy moves and thoughtful sequences. Routes at Fisherman's Butrress range from 5.5 to 5.12, although the bulk of the better routes are in the 5.11 and up range making it a good alternative to the nearby Holcomb Valley Pinnacles. Recommended routes here include Roadside Crack (5.10a), Trout Fishing in America (5.11b), Big Mouth Fever (5.11c), Catch of the Day (5.11c), Rumblefish (5.11d), Trouser Trout (5.12a) and Check Your Fly (5.12a) among others.

Slightly further up the hillside from Fisherman's Buttress is the Underworld - a small but nice crag with a handful of routes from 5.8 to 5.11a. Both Purgatory (5.10b) and Downward Spiral (5.11a) are highly recommended routes to do at this crag.

The nearby Toetally Broken Buttress is a good spot for moderate cracks with a view.

 Those who make the hike up to the Throne of The Mountain Gods are rewarded with three short, but high quality routes in a remote setting. All three - Aphrodite (5.10c), Apollo (5.11b) and Lord, Have Mercy (5.12a) are worth doing.

Getting There Suggest change

To approach the routes in Icebox Canyon park in a large paved pullout 0.4 miles from the dam on the south side of Big Bear Lake. Carefully cross the highway and follow a trail uphill alongside Kidd Creek. Hike 200 meters uphill through rough terrain and boulders until some larger rocks come into view on the left side of the creek. Head left up the hillside here to reach the base of the Underworld (this is about a 15 minute approach).

Toetally Broken Buttress is located a little further past the turnoff for the Underworld and faces west (10-15 minute approach), while the Throne of The Mountain Gods is reached by hiking up Kidd Creek until it levels out, where it will be found on the right side of the trail facing north (about a 30-40 minute approach).

Fisherman's Buttress is easily reached by driving 0.6 miles from the dam at Big Bear Lake on the south shore of the lake. Limited parking is available at three nearby spots - 1) a short distance east of the crag in a dirt pullout on the right side (south) of the road which fits about three vehicles, 2) across the road from #1 with room for a car or two, and 3) to the west (towards the dam) on the lake side (left) of the paved road with room for about five or six vehicles.

From parking location #1 and #2 head upslope and follow a faint trail through boulders which quickly improves. Follow this to Three Fishes Rock and on to the east face of Fisherman's Buttress. From parking location #3 cross the road carefully, and then head uphill to join a trail which leads to the west face of Fisherman's Buttress. Plan on about a five minute approach.

  • Please don't walk along the road or head directly up the hillside - doing either will cause problems at this crag, so please take the extra time to find the trail and prevent any sort of access issues.

43 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Fisherman's Buttress Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 27
Roadside Crack
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 31
Crappie Corner
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
Three Fishes
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 23
Power Bait
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 22
Stanley-Slip Bobber
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 24
Catch and Release
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 22
Trout Fishing in America
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 7
Big Mouth Fever
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
Splash Dancer
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
Catch of the Day
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
Rumblefish
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Check Your Fly
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Trouser Trout
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Fish Out of Water
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Roadside Crack Fisherman's But… > Fisherman's Buttress…
 27
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Crappie Corner Fisherman's But… > Fisherman's Buttress…
 31
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Three Fishes Fisherman's But… > Three Fishes Rock
 9
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Power Bait Fisherman's But… > Fisherman's Buttress…
 23
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Stanley-Slip Bobber Fisherman's But… > Fisherman's Buttress…
 22
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Catch and Release Fisherman's But… > Fisherman's Buttress…
 24
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Trout Fishing in America Fisherman's But… > Fisherman's Buttress…
 22
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Big Mouth Fever Fisherman's But… > Fisherman's Buttress…
 7
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Splash Dancer Fisherman's But… > Three Fishes Rock
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Catch of the Day Fisherman's But… > Fisherman's Buttress…
 8
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Rumblefish Fisherman's But… > Fisherman's Buttress…
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Check Your Fly Fisherman's But… > Fisherman's Buttress…
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Trouser Trout Fisherman's But… > Fisherman's Buttress…
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Fish Out of Water Fisherman's But… > Fisherman's Buttress…
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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