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Routes in Cowlick Crag

Blind Faith (this ain't Eldo) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cow Lick Co. Crag S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flying Chuckwalla S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Cocktails for Shrimpy TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pancakes and Porn TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
RHG route TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unnamed 5.5 TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unnamed 5.6 T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wonderful World of Shrimpy, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elevation: 3,818 ft
GPS: 36.152, -115.428 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 10,459 total · 78/month
Shared By: Jason D. Martin on Feb 9, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

Description

The Cowlick Crag is a nice blob of rock that can be found directly across the trail from Dickies Cliff.

The crag features morning sun and a lot of easily accessible top-ropes. Some of the rock quality is questionable, but the routes on the more friable terrain tend to be top-ropes.
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Getting There

Park in the Red Springs Parking Lot. Take the trail up out of the lot below Cannibal Crag, below Physical Graffiti, towards the notch. You will find the Cowlick Crag on the right hand side, just before you start to go up hill.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cowlick Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flying Chuckwalla
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cow Lick Co. Crag
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pancakes and Porn
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Flying Chuckwalla 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Cow Lick Co. Crag 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Pancakes and Porn 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
More Classic Climbs in Cowlick Crag »

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Eric-D
Las Vegas, nv
Eric-D   Las Vegas, nv
Map to Cowlick Crag for anyone who needs it.

maps.google.com/maps/ms?msi… Jul 31, 2011
Also, a quick word on "getting there" section above. To get to Cowlick Crag, take the trail bearing to the right (rather than left) out of the parking lot. The various names of the features described in the "getting there" section are likely familiar to folks in the area, but for out-of-towners, thought I'd add to bear right out of the lot.

The notch referred to in the getting there section is a helpful guidepost -- just note it is not visible until after you round the first big rock outcropping a short way down the trail.

Thanks! Jul 7, 2008
Two families consisting of beginner climbers from age 4 to 40 climbed the two "Shrimpy" TR routes on Cowlick Crag this past weekend. A huge thanks to all who post here and made researching the climbs from our home in Minneapolis possible, and for providing pictures that made scouting the climb before taking the children out there a breeze!

I'll add a few impressions - these are from real beginners FWIW. The two bolts on top of the rock for the Shrimpy routes are what we thought were good in one case and just OK for the second. The second spun in place a bit, and the bolt was loose enough to "hand-tighten" (which was not comforting). The looseness of the second bolt combined with the nature of the rock gave us some serious pause. ButwWe used some webbing to rig a third anchor point spanning a couple of solid rock outcroppings, and combined with the two bolted anchors, felt good about the set-up after equalizing the load. Post-climb inspection did not reveal any issues with any of the anchors.

Again, our evaluation of that loose bolt is a beginner's perspective, so others with more experience may disagree with the thoughts. In any event, it was a great morning of climbing, and all made possible by the good folks who took the time to post here. So, thanks again! Jul 7, 2008

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