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Routes in Cowlick Crag

Blind Faith (this ain't Eldo) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cow Lick Co. Crag S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flying Chuckwalla S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Cocktails for Shrimpy TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pancakes and Porn TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
RHG route TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wonderful World of Shrimpy, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Todd, and Donette Swain, Mike Dimitri
Page Views: 5,414 total, 41/month
Shared By: Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi? on Mar 22, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Once upon a time, the rotten sandstone devil had its loose hold on two, unprotected, power-hiking scrambling girls of Red Rock, until they saw the sign to save themselves. Other people have seen the signs too.





So, after many near death experiences, the girls thought they may be able to live longer as rock climbers, as it would teach them how to be safer hikers. So off they went to Border’s books, and bought "How to Rock Climb” by John Long. They purchased the gear that they needed to get started, and went to the gym to learn how to use a GriGri. No classes, and two brief times in the gym was enough for the ex-prison guard red head who ran a mens pod, and the brunette who grew up in the not-so-nice neighborhoods in LA. Besides, John Long’s book was their new bible.

So off they went to lead a climb, and practice with their new toys. The girls decided to go to Calico Basin, after working day shift, where they had once seen bolts while out hiking on this climb called Cow Lick Co. Crag. The girls discussed, “Well, the guide book says it’s a 5.7, and that seems to be a beginner’s grade, for a sport climb,” so they both decided it would suffice for a first lead. They both looked at each other, and wanted the other to jump on the lead. The feisty red head blurted, “You were the one who talked us into doing this crazy shit, so you can lead it, this is YOUR deal!" The brunette gave a nervous laugh, and said, “Whatever, okay.”

They did all the right things with the knots, rope, and double checking each other, so off the brunette went on lead. A few dance moves up the slab, and she stopped for a second, and said, “That bolt looks a little high.” The red head reassured, “All the climbs are probably like that.” A little bit of continued smearing, and crimping that the brunette had learned from her Red Rock death scrambles, finally got her to the first bolt, and she quickly, and proudly clipped her first bolt outdoors, and ran the rope through. She took a deep breath, relieved, but now seeking reassurance from her red headed partner that she really did have her on belay, and then the brunette climbed on.

The brunette climbed a few feet above the first bolt, and the red head asked, “Are you back clipped?" The brunette didn’t really want to think about it at that point, so without looking she replied, “No,” and climbed on very slowly. “Some of this rock sounds hollow," the brunette said with a shaky voice, as she was clinging to a little under-cling, looking for where she should go next. “Oh, there’s the next bolt, okay,” she had thought to herself, and with a little Elvis in her leg. Well, this is Vegas, baby.

Anyway, the second bolt was soon clipped, and the brunette felt a lot better, until she got up to a little roof. “Now what?” she had thought. By this time she was electively mute from being frightened, but found hope when she had blindly reached up over the bulge, and felt on some hard balls. They were small balls but when she finally had the courage to look at them, she saw that they were solid, and could be very useful to pull up over the annoying bulge, and it was even more encouraging when she had also seen another bolt nearby above her. "Whew, that was fun," the brunette called down after she had pulled the move.

The proud brunette happily scampered up the easy, low angle slab with positive holds that felt similar to the scrambles in Red Rock that they both loved. She was finally smiling again, and was soon at the strange looking cold shut anchor; she clipped into it, and did all the text book things, rapped down with her tuber, and it was on!

The red head found that she didn’t care too much for that kind of rock climbing after Cow Lick Co. Crag, and stuck to her power hiking, and unprotected scrambles, sold her climbing gear on ebay, and eventually moved to the island of Kauai. The brunette climbed on, hooked up with trad mentors, developed a liking for multi-pitch epics in Red Rock, and is still living in Sin City.

The end.

Strange, Cow Lick Co. Crag was my first lead. ; )
PS... I wouldn't recommend it to a new leader.

Have fun!

Location

Climb is #4 in Jason Martin's beta photo.


Protection

4 Bolts to Cold Shut anchor
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
6 bolts, as of 4 Nov 2013, leading up to an anchor dangling rap chains. Another anchor higher on the flat topside, in-line with the mentioned one. Nov 5, 2013
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.7 PG13
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.7 PG13
I can't add to the excellent route beta but a better route than the one to the right IMHO. Mar 13, 2011
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
  5.7 R
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
  5.7 R
4 lead bolts in the first 40 or so feet, then...nothing until the anchor.

Seemed like at least 25 feet to the anchor from the last bolt. Sport, or, sporty?

Make sure belayer is payin' attention if you bust a hold and fall enroute to the anchor, or, otherwise, you could deck.

Also, someone should eventually replace the last hanger (homemade) and the cold shuts.

Yeah, it's only 5.4 up there, but... Oct 13, 2009
an accurate description of the route Feb 5, 2009
Jim Matt
Indianapolis, IN
Jim Matt   Indianapolis, IN
I certainly got a chuckle from reading about Gigi grabbing "small but solid balls over an annoying bulge." LOL Mar 27, 2007
Thanks, Ron! It's always fun for me to reminisce, especially after working long hours these days; 56-64 hours a week of being locked up. Anyway, I'm glad someone besides me was entertained by it. ; ) Mar 24, 2007
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
I hereby nominate this route description and follow-up comment for the first annual Mountain Project "EmPee" awards in the following categories:

  • Most entertaining route description of the year.
  • Funniest photo accompanying a route description (for Gigi's "Woman Possessed" photo)

Keep up the good work, Gigi! Mar 24, 2007
Classic narrative! Mar 22, 2007