Elevation: 7,349 ft
GPS: 51.124, -115.119 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 50,094 total · 307/month
Shared By: Brad Warne on Feb 5, 2007 with improvements by Andy Genereux
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

Description

Yamnuska (officially named: Mt Laurie) has approx 200 routes. Ranging from 5.5 to 5.14-including 30m sportish climbs to 350m trad testpieces. There are a few sport routes but most have trad gear requirements. The cliff is home to traditional climbing in the Canadian Rockies so expect a little adventure on most routes. Its southern exposure allows for a long climbing season. It can be climbed in the middle of winter but don't be surprised if you get snowed on in the middle of August either. As with most of the Rockies the rock is limestone, which is a mixed bag. Though generally the rock is good and excellent in places. For more information refer to "Yamnuska Rock" by Andy Genereux.
If you want adventure climbing you will find it here!

Getting There

Yam is located approx. 1hrs drive west of Calgary and 30mins East of Banff. If coming from Calgary take Highway 1 (Trans Canada)west to Highway 1X. Take the righthand off ramp heading north to Highway 1A. Turn right at the "T" intersection, drive approx. 2km and take the first left turn into the parking area. If coming from Banff, take Highway 1 east to the 1X and continue as above.
The approach trail leaves the parking lot at the west end. Follow the trail up a steep hillside to a junction with a sign. The climbers trail heads west and will deposit you at the base of the cliff near the center. The hiking trail heads east and will put you at the east end of the cliff. The climber's trail is a sustained grunt and the best option if climbing any routes west of Red Shirt. The hiking trail is a little more pleasant and adds only a couple of minutes but is only recommended for approaching the East End routes.
The descent for most routes is an easy walk off. If your route is west of the summit head down and west, if it is east of the summit head down and east. For routes that are close to the summit on the east side it is usually quicker to head over the summit and take the western descent trail.

Kallen 34

The Kallen 34 is a published list that puts 34 routes on Yamnuska on a pedestal as a healthy and scary challenge to those who want to test their mettle. The list is at Brandon Pullan's Blogspot brandopullan.blogspot.ca/20… or just below:

Windy Slabs
Easy Street
Kings Chimney
Unnamed
The Toe
Missionarys Crack (CURRENTLY UNCLIMBABLE AND VERY LOOSE)
The Tongue
Belfy
Dazed and Confused
Necromancer
Moms Tears
Calgary Routes
CMC Wall
Directissma
Shuftee
Balrog
Chockstone Corner
Bottleneck Direct Direct
Grillmair
Kahl Wall
Forbidden Corner
Red Shirt
The Bowl
Yellow Edge
Corkscrew
Freak Out
Pangollin
Smeagol
Dicks Routes
Gollum Grooves
Dickel
A Route
B Route
C Route

These are not the 'best routes' as many are considered pretty bold and scary but just a list put together by Urs Kallen, a Pionner of the Valley. It is a healthy objective for anyone who wants to get some good rock climbing done and also brag at the bar.

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Yamnuska

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 4
Windy Slabs
Trad 6 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 10
Easy Street
Trad 6 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 17
Grillmair's Chimneys
Trad 8 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Red Shirt
Trad 8 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 13
Direttissima
Trad 9 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 5
Forbidden Corner
Trad 10 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 7
Smeagol
Trad 3 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 13
Kahl Wall
Trad 9 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
 6
Pony Express
Trad 6 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 5
Dreambed
Trad 8 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Windy Slabs 1. The W End
 4
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 6 pitches
Easy Street 1. The W End
 10
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 6 pitches
Grillmair's Chimneys 5. Bottleneck
 17
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 8 pitches
Red Shirt 7. The Bowl & Red Shirt
 8
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 8 pitches
Direttissima 3. CMC Wall
 13
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 9 pitches
Forbidden Corner 6. Kahl Wall
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 10 pitches
Smeagol 8. E End
 7
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Kahl Wall 6. Kahl Wall
 13
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 9 pitches
Pony Express 1. The W End
 6
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 6 pitches
Dreambed 7. The Bowl & Red Shirt
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad 8 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Yamnuska »

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