Yamnuska Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 7,349 ft | 2,240 m |
GPS: |
51.1238, -115.1185 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 91,365 total · 415/month | |
Shared By: | Brad Warne on Feb 5, 2007 · Updates | |
Admins: | Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry |
Description
Yamnuska (officially named: Mt Laurie) has approx 200 routes. Ranging from 5.5 to 5.14-including 30m sportish climbs to 350m trad testpieces. There are a few sport routes but most have trad gear requirements. The cliff is home to traditional climbing in the Canadian Rockies so expect a little adventure on most routes. Its southern exposure allows for a long climbing season. It can be climbed in the middle of winter but don't be surprised if you get snowed on in the middle of August either. As with most of the Rockies the rock is limestone, which is a mixed bag. Though generally the rock is good and excellent in places. For more information refer to "Yamnuska Rock" by Andy Genereux.
If you want adventure climbing you will find it here!
If you want adventure climbing you will find it here!
Getting There
Yam is located approx. 1hrs drive west of Calgary and 30mins East of Banff. If coming from Calgary take Highway 1 (Trans Canada)west to Highway 1X. Take the righthand off ramp heading north to Highway 1A. Turn right at the "T" intersection, drive approx. 2km and take the first left turn into the parking area. If coming from Banff, take Highway 1 east to the 1X and continue as above.
The approach trail leaves the parking lot at the west end. Follow the trail up a steep hillside to a junction with a sign. The climbers trail heads west and will deposit you at the base of the cliff near the center. The hiking trail heads east and will put you at the east end of the cliff. The climber's trail is a sustained grunt and the best option if climbing any routes west of Red Shirt. The hiking trail is a little more pleasant and adds only a couple of minutes but is only recommended for approaching the East End routes.
The descent for most routes is an easy walk off. If your route is west of the summit head down and west, if it is east of the summit head down and east. For routes that are close to the summit on the east side it is usually quicker to head over the summit and take the western descent trail.
The approach trail leaves the parking lot at the west end. Follow the trail up a steep hillside to a junction with a sign. The climbers trail heads west and will deposit you at the base of the cliff near the center. The hiking trail heads east and will put you at the east end of the cliff. The climber's trail is a sustained grunt and the best option if climbing any routes west of Red Shirt. The hiking trail is a little more pleasant and adds only a couple of minutes but is only recommended for approaching the East End routes.
The descent for most routes is an easy walk off. If your route is west of the summit head down and west, if it is east of the summit head down and east. For routes that are close to the summit on the east side it is usually quicker to head over the summit and take the western descent trail.
Kallen 34
The Kallen 34 is a published list that puts 34 routes on Yamnuska on a pedestal as a healthy and scary challenge to those who want to test their mettle. The list is at Brandon Pullan's Blogspot brandopullan.blogspot.ca/20… or just below:
Windy Slabs
Easy Street
Kings Chimney
Unnamed
The Toe
Missionarys Crack (CURRENTLY UNCLIMBABLE AND VERY LOOSE)
The Tongue
Belfy
Dazed and Confused
Necromancer
Moms Tears
Calgary Routes
CMC Wall
Directissma
Shuftee
Balrog
Chockstone Corner
Bottleneck Direct Direct
Grillmair
Kahl Wall
Forbidden Corner
Red Shirt
The Bowl
Yellow Edge
Corkscrew
Freak Out
Pangollin
Smeagol
Dicks Routes
Gollum Grooves
Dickel
A Route
B Route
C Route
These are not the 'best routes' as many are considered pretty bold and scary but just a list put together by Urs Kallen, a Pionner of the Valley. It is a healthy objective for anyone who wants to get some good rock climbing done and also brag at the bar.
Windy Slabs
Easy Street
Kings Chimney
Unnamed
The Toe
Missionarys Crack (CURRENTLY UNCLIMBABLE AND VERY LOOSE)
The Tongue
Belfy
Dazed and Confused
Necromancer
Moms Tears
Calgary Routes
CMC Wall
Directissma
Shuftee
Balrog
Chockstone Corner
Bottleneck Direct Direct
Grillmair
Kahl Wall
Forbidden Corner
Red Shirt
The Bowl
Yellow Edge
Corkscrew
Freak Out
Pangollin
Smeagol
Dicks Routes
Gollum Grooves
Dickel
A Route
B Route
C Route
These are not the 'best routes' as many are considered pretty bold and scary but just a list put together by Urs Kallen, a Pionner of the Valley. It is a healthy objective for anyone who wants to get some good rock climbing done and also brag at the bar.
Classic Climbing Routes at Yamnuska
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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