Type: Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: J. Martin and S. Slymon Oct 1968
Page Views: 4,595 total · 25/month
Shared By: Brad Warne on Feb 12, 2007
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

You & This Route

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Probably the best easy route on the West End, as the crowds will attest. Great rock and fun climbing make this a good route for beginners, though route-finding can be difficult due to the broken terrain. Most belays are bolted and a standard rack will suffice.

Start on the right side of a shattered pillar. Just to the right of the pillar is a line of bolts for "Broken Wing".

P1: Climb the crack on the right side of the pillar passing two pins. At about half height move left and face climb for a few meters. Return to the crack until you come to a ledge with a two bolt belay. 5.6, 25m

P2: Traverse left passing two pins to a ramp leading up and left. At the top of the ramp traverse left a few meters to a bolt at the base of a gully. Climb the gully to where it becomes a chimney, (Kings Chimney) and belay at two bolts on a ledge on the left. 5.6, 30m

P3: From the belay climb the slabby face up and left past two pitons. A two bolt belay can be found on a ledge with a small pillar. 5.5, 35m

P4: Climb up a few meters to a ledge and a pin. Traverse left to a groove that turns into a crack. Climb up to a ledge with a tree, make a cam and pin belay. 5.5, 30m

P5: Follow cracks up and left to a large ledge (BBQ Ledge). 5.4, 25m

P6: Finish the route by picking one of the "West End Finishes".


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