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Routes in 1. The West End

Easy Street T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Gray Goose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
King's Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Missionary's Crack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Pony Express T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Toe, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Tongue-Right Side, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Unnamed T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Western Union T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Windy Slabs T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 900 ft, 7 pitches, Grade II
FA: D. Vockeroth and B. King June 1964
Page Views: 154 total · 1/month
Shared By: Brad Warne on Feb 12, 2007
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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Description

Kings Chimney is another good beginners route, though parts are becoming a little polished.

Start: The chimney can be accessed by climbing either the first few pitches of Easy Street or Unnamed. Some belays are bolted, and you will need a standard rack with maybe some gear to 4" depending on comfort level.

P1-P3: Either climb the first two pitches of Easy Street or the first three pitches of Unnamed. Belay at the base of the chimney on a ledge with two bolts, (second belay for Easy Street).

P4: Step right into the chimney. Climb the chimney past a piton and a bolt. Belay on a ledge with a large block on the left of the chimney, two bolts. 5.6, 50m

P5: Climb past a steep section to where two options present themselves. Either continue up the chimney to where it ends with a four bolt belay or, climb shattered rock up and left out of the chimney to a ledge and the same belay. The second option is a little more run-out. 5.5, 30m

P6: From the belay traverse left past a pin and further a two bolt belay for "Direct Mail". Climb up and left past a steep bulge and continue traversing passing four pitons. Climb down and left past another pin to the large ledge (BBQ Ledge) and a two bolt belay. 5.5, 25m

P7: Finish as per one of the "West End Finishes".

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