Mt. Madison aka Roxbury Heritage State Park Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 30 ft | 9 m |
GPS: |
42.33113, -71.09155 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 2,853 total · 13/month | |
Shared By: | Leo Paik on Jan 13, 2007 · Updates | |
Admins: | Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M |
Description
This is a totally-obscure, North-facing, chunk of rock that is probably not worth the effort of climbing. Some idgit obscurists (edit, of which I am one) will seek it out, since it is referenced in various climbing sources. Its location makes it probably less-than-perfectly wise to be climbing here. Im not sure of the rock type, but it seemed less than ideal conglomerate? The climbing starts right off the sidewalk and goes up perhaps 40 feet. Nonetheless, here it is. It is not recommended.
I'd the list of folks who have actually climbed this rock is pretty short...no Nobel laureates for sure.
Subsequent to this original posting, Jim Howe submitted a subarea that covered this climbing under a different name. These are combined here:
Per Jim Howe: Roxbury Heritage State Park is a newly designated small, historical park in Roxbury located in a somewhat busy area across the street from a high school. It contains a modest selection of steep and slabby 20-30 foot climbs on some surprisingly high quality puddingstone.
There are two main walls in the park. The western wall is directly adjacent to sidewalk and is at least 70 feet long. The rock quality is a bit worse, so cleaning these routes might be hazardous. The eastern wall is set back pretty far from the street and has a smaller selection of high quality climbing. There are no bolts in the park, but there are plenty of large trees 5-10 feet back from the top. Bring static rope!
The main wall is set back from the road and contains higher quality rock and routes, the standout being a slabby 5.11 seam.There is the potential for some very hard slab climbs on this wall on portions where this is no seam. It really seems like some would go eventually, and be at least 5.12.
Getting There
This lies near Northeastern University in Roxbury. From Huntington Ave., go East on Tremont St. Where Tremont St. goes North, continue East on New Dudley St. It lies across from the Madison Park High School.
Per Jim Howe: there are two bus stops right in front of the park. There is also street parking around the bus stops and a small parking lot up top meant for visitors of the park and museum which closes at dusk.
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